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[TR] Yosemite - Sunkist 9/18/2013


keenwesh

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Trip: Yosemite - Sunkist

 

Date: 9/18/2013

 

Trip Report:

Just got back from a month in the ditch, managed to get up Sunkist while I was down there, along with several other climbs where I didn't bring my camera along.

 

Here are some pics!

 

The SK headwall is way up there

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Lambone on Mammoth

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Sunshade on Mammoth

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We replaced/added 7 belay bolts, pulling most of the old randomly placed crap. This is pitch 10, which before was one good bolt that I equalized with a offset and #3 pecker way off to the right. Now it's two bomber and logically placed 3/8's

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Midway through P12, beaking up a seam to a rivet ladder that deposits you at the base of the headwall.

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Not a bad place to wake up in!

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Lambone leading the first headwall pitch, mostly shitty rivets and some beaking

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Under the fly, trying to keep moral high. Mid-storm on the headwall

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It was nasty outside, Some guys on heart had a full on raging creek flowing about a foot away from their portaledge. They bailed the next day.

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Lambone cleaning the all time aid crack, P14. 165 feet of overhanging splitterness, 2500 feet off the deck

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Incredible place. Also, sorry dad, I borrowed your socks...

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Lambone on the crux, P15

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On top of the A5 arch

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Cheesin' at the top of the A5 arch, our last bivi

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Day 7 and still fired up

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Sunset topout

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Gear Notes:

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/sunkist

 

I told Erik what we used, so the gear list is up to date. As for big cams two new BD #5's and a single #6 were perfect for the chimney/OW pitch. No 8"-12" piece needed

 

Approach Notes:

Walk for 20 minutes, suffer for a day or two while hauling to Mammoth.

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Shout out to Erik Sloan and Rodger Putnam, these two dudes are putting together a comprehensive yosemite big wall guidebook that should come out this winter in time for next spring's wall season. They're also putting up all the topos as PDF's on their website http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/

 

If you have any yosemite aspirations pick up the guidebook, it should be incredible judging by the amount of work they're putting into it.

 

Also, shout out to Greg Barnes at the ASCA who sent me bolts and bits for updating the belays. Donate if you can and give him a shout if you're planning on going up a lesser traveled El Cap route.

 

Mark Hudon lent me some tuning forks, it's terrifying how easy old quarter inchers come out!

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