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[TR] The Tooth - S Face 10/13/2013

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Trip: The Tooth - S Face


Date: 10/13/2013


Trip Report:


Premature snow has not shut down alpine rock yet! In fact the Tooth was suprisingly overrun for a mid-October day (16 people by our count!). But then again the forecast was pretty nice...


Temps were in the 40's much of the day. Snow begins a few hundred feet above Source Lake in the boulder-field basin. The snow is patchy and combined with verglas on the rocks in the morning quite a bit treacherous, requiring concentration, deliberate moves and mindful foot placements. On the way out, the issue is more about punching through the soft stuff. There is a good boot tread all the way up to follow.


The route is 99% snow free with just a bit on the scramble pitch (more muddy than snowy), but you can avoid it.


A great way to spend a fall day. Pics follow.


On the approach above Source Lake:



A bit of snow in the approach gully:



My belayer on P1:



View down from the final pitch:



View down the basin from the summit:






The basin on the way out.



Gear Notes:

Trekking poles were nice. No need for 'pons or ice axe.

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Thanks for the update on conditions! I'm wanting to hit the tooth this week, but didn't know how much snow to expect.

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Did you by chance look over at the improbably traverse on guye and see if it still looked snow free?


Guye was occluded by fog/clouds both when we came in and when we left, so I did not see for sure. However, based one what I saw on the Tooth and on the lower slope/talus field of Guye, I would say it is snow free, and if not today, than probably by Friday with the sun and warm temps.

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