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[TR] SW Face of Stein's Pillar --> Free Lunch - 10/5/2013


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Trip: SW Face of Stein's Pillar --> Free Lunch -

 

Date: 10/5/2013

 

Trip Report:

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-10.jpg

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-93.jpg

 

Last weekend saw excellent conditions in Central Oregon, perfect for a two-day 2-fer.

 

SW Face of Stein's Pillar, III 5.10d

 

This route is ultra-classic and should see way more traffic.

 

The beautiful pitch 1 finger crack.

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-25.jpg

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-26.jpg

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-29.jpg

 

Pitch 2 face climbing

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-34.jpg

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-35.jpg

 

Pitch 3 bulges

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-42.jpg

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-47.jpg

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-48.jpg

 

Free Lunch, Picnic Lunch Wall, III 5.10a PG-13

 

Pitch 1 traverse

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-95.jpg

 

Pitch 2 more traversing

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-101.jpg

 

Then for pitch 3-5 the camera got put away as we were focused on the climbing. Pitch 4 is 130 ft. of locking hand jams and crack work on solid rock way above the park. Awesome! Apart from pitch 4, the rest of the route is fairly serious and loose but what a proud line.

 

10-13+-+Steins+and+Smith-107.jpg

 

Both routes are worthy. The climbing and rock quality on Stein's is more aesthetic. Picnic Lunch Wall is iconic for Oregon. Good times on the tuff.

 

 

Gear Notes:

SW Face of Stein's - single set of TCUs and Cams from 00-#2. Single set of nuts. Extra finger sized pieces. 2 ropes for rappel of NE face (watch the knot on the first rap). 12-15 slings.

 

Free Lunch - double set of cams to #4, single set of nuts. 12-15 slings.

 

Approach Notes:

Simple

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Mike Adams and I climbed Stein's in 1984, my first real summer of rock climbing under Mike's tutelage. A great ending to a great summer before heading off to the Army. At the time, there were about a half dozen entries in the summit register, including some rather famous names. I felt like I'd really done something. Your pictures bring back many great memories. Thanks!

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