Jump to content

[TR] Mt Stuart - The complete North Ridge


OlegV

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt Stuart - The complete North Ridge

 

Date: 9/14/2013

 

Trip Report:

Cheating death is an addiction.

Awakened by a powerful blow of the mighty northern wind, my mind returns from a catatonic state to reality. With my back firmly pressed against a perfect crack of the great Gendarme, I am overwhelmed by a strong feeling of being a part of this ancient tower. I celebrate the arrival of 3 o’clock and continue counting endless hours. Time passes slowly. Nastia and I are crouched in fetal position attached by our umbilical cords to the rappel bolts at the small ledge next the Gendarme. Because the morning forecast didn’t look good, we are mentally prepared to a difficult escape. We cherish clear starry skies and pray mountain Gods for no rain in the morning.

 

9776120904_ffeab99f59_b.jpg

 

9776136464_644c1f0582_b.jpg

 

The previous day progress to the base of the North Ridge was stalled by difficult route finding and heat. We simply ran out of water and had to drink shit. The high traverse across the icy Stuart glacier without ice axes and crampons was interesting. Fortunately, no grey matter substance was spilled against the rocks. We downclimbed wet ledges and settled at the bivy site not far from the toe of the ridge. Feeling dehydrated, we drank water that looked like muddy sewage coming out of the broken Taj Mahal pipe. Fack Giardia – if we fertilize this valley, the Earth will be much greener!

 

The complete North Ridge from the Goat Pass:

9776318092_fb7b38f486_b.jpg

 

Nastia at the first bivy site:

9776282092_fa09df186a_b.jpg

 

The lower ridge is a fun crag. Nastia is having double-fun following the constricted 5.8 slot and the 5.9 crack with a heavy pack filled with bivy gear and mini pizzas. We can fight obesity with strenuous exercise and fear! We are now being followed by Ryan and his companions. At noon, they catch up with us at the notch. For a while, we climb side by side. To avoid a bottle neck, we slow down, giving up on the idea of going to the summit the same day. Because we are hard alpinists made of rusty Russian steel, we pass the bivy sites and choose to sleep at the toe of the Gendarme exposed to cold northern winds …

 

Nastia starting on p1:

9776261452_c67a76ecac_b.jpg

 

Oleg, p2:

9776254732_9e2a52a17c_b.jpg

 

Nastia, p3:

9776239352_3508356ae8_b.jpg

 

Looking down:

9776426796_779f5cc545_b.jpg

 

Oleg, p4 (5.9 crack):

9776037611_d10a936cc8_b.jpg

 

Nastia at the lower ridge:

9776029591_fd51ca7b67_b.jpg

 

Nastia pulling some hard moves:

9776197824_4430b3f088_b.jpg

 

The Ice Cliff Glacier:

9776254113_d850dbc8f8_b.jpg

 

Three teams on the ridge:

9775887585_055a4517c4_b.jpg

 

Approaching the gendarme:

9775970702_3f2f0f7864_b.jpg

 

Awakened by a weak whisper of the alarm clock, we welcome morning inversion and strangely looking clouds. I secretly drink water, but Nastia stops me with harsh Russian comments. We say “Fack” to bypass and prepare to climb the cold wavy crack just above our heads. The first pitch is made of the perfect granite; the crack is solid and has female body shape... climbing is equally enjoyable. We are feeling the exposure of what lies ahead of us. The sight of old gear permanently stuck in the cracks makes us feel somehow close to many, Jim Wickwire included, who crawled up this masterpiece over the years. I burry my elbows in the wide gaping groove and walk my way up the crack using the two #3s as the extension of my hands. Nastia follows me, looking surreal with her big pack and blushing face.

 

Sunrise:

9776107294_16f7307e48_b.jpg

 

The great Gendarme:

9776106056_3c65ecdd96_b.jpg

 

Oleg leading the p1 of the Gendarme:

9776170193_5535c7ba5f_b.jpg

 

Oleg leading the p2 of the Gendarme:

9775870932_3cdf9769a5_b.jpg

 

Many pitches later and some off-route travel we arrive to the summit feeling happy and tired.

 

 

 

Descent: we never find a trail that goes right of Cascadian. Keywords: down-climbing south; bushwhack, approaching thunderstorm, dealing with a woman and a man, discovering running water, great relief, very long pass, parking lot, downpour, hale. Aaron B generously offered to crash at his place in Seattle instead of us driving to PDX. He said I looked like real shit which is true. Aaron is a master chief who knows how to cook the best post recovery dinner and how to drink whiskey and a beer! Bravo!!!

 

Gear Notes:

5 mini-pizzas, 5 sneakers bars, lots of vitamin C, medium rack, few doubles, light bivy gear, compass, topos.

 

Approach Notes:

nasty

Edited by OlegV
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Damn. The Russian way is not for pansies.

 

I still laugh when I think of Oleg turning to me in the crater of Rainier on a cold winter's day, smiling, and saying "It reminds me of Siberia!" Like that was a good thing. Since I was wearing every last bit of clothing I had with me (and wasn't warm), I was thinking that if I stop moving I'm going to die.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Russians and Americans should all read "One Day in the Life of Ivan Denisovich" next time you're on a bivy and feel like bitching. Great TR and pics. NR of Stuart is as classic as classic gets and every TR will get lots of looks.

 

Hey Matt, I always wanted to read this book - will do tonight!!!

 

Soljenicin is always fun when it comes to describing suffer :)

Edited by OlegV
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Damn. The Russian way is not for pansies.

 

I still laugh when I think of Oleg turning to me in the crater of Rainier on a cold winter's day, smiling, and saying "It reminds me of Siberia!" Like that was a good thing. Since I was wearing every last bit of clothing I had with me (and wasn't warm), I was thinking that if I stop moving I'm going to die.

 

 

Hey Jason, old memories don't die :) I remember having hard times keeping up with you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Damn. The Russian way is not for pansies.

 

I still laugh when I think of Oleg turning to me in the crater of Rainier on a cold winter's day, smiling, and saying "It reminds me of Siberia!" Like that was a good thing. Since I was wearing every last bit of clothing I had with me (and wasn't warm), I was thinking that if I stop moving I'm going to die.

 

 

there is a Russian saying I like:

 

za odnogo bytogo, dvukh nebitykh dayut

 

Translating word for word would be too terse. Suffice it to say that Russians consider a man who has been beaten down to be considered a valuable one to have around for future endeavors - more so than two who have not experienced a beat-down :-)

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Russians consider a man who has been beaten down to be considered a valuable one to have around for future endeavors - more so than two who have not experienced a beat-down :-)

 

I must be priceless then.

 

We should admit, we never fully recover from our little tragedies :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...