[TR] Yak Peak - Speedway 5.8 9/13/2013

[diesel]

Trip: Yak Peak - Speedway 5.8

 

Date: 9/13/2013

 

Trip Report:

TR:

 

I climbed Speedway by myself on Fri.

 

Found route to be quite good and directions to base by Dru were excellent (70m right of small pond). Was suprised by the clean white slabs with no lichen and no loose rock. Nice anchors all the way up.

Was intending to rope solo 9th crux 5.8 pitch, but flake edges in galacier polish beckoned my up. Fun!

I ended up missing top of pitch 9 and bottom of pitch 10 via climb aroung to right of runout slab to 2nd bolt. Found nice shallow corner with clean crack in it that took me around.

It took me 1 1/4 hrs. to solo to top, but the adventure was just beginning! Dirty wide low 5th corners, mossy slabs and steep cedar pulling brought me to the top after another 1 1/4 hrs.. Do not recomend climbing to the top unless masochisticly inclined. Geat Route!

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

60m twin rope, solo belay device and small rack which was not used.

 

Need doubles for rapelling route which I recommend!

 

Approach Notes:

20 min. from standard Yak Chek trail. Do not recommend. Sketchy on gravel covered slabs. Try the new trail from rest area.

[G-spotter]

Another to-the-top option is to make a diagonal rappel from the base of p9, which is the closest point, onto the adjacent SOMWOW and climb out to the west ridge via that route. I think it's about 30-40m

[highstep]

Is there potential for a better exit to be developed?

[G-spotter]

It'd have to be either pretty contrived or heavily gardened, as the top of Speedway is pretty much where you run out of clean rock and get into fuzzy slab meadows.