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[TR] Slesse - NE Buttress 9/11/2013

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Trip: Slesse - NE Buttress


Date: 9/11/2013


Trip Report:

It's a zoo up there. There were 11 people on the route (including our party of 3) Wednesday, a couple more Thursday, a couple more Friday and a few yesterday. Weather's coming in today, that might be it for the year...






Gear Notes:

double 60m ropes, gear from small wires to 3" cam


Can get water from base of east face (but don't trust the quality, poop from the bivi ledge lands here!) and then not again until Crossover or partway down the Slesse descent so bring a lot. 2L was not quite enough.


Approach Notes:

Need high clearance at minimum but maybe not 4wd to get to Nesakwatch trailhead


via Propellor Cairn and thru notch. Bypass Gl has mostly (99.9%) slid. No need for anything but approach shoes.


Walkoff via Chossover Pass, a couple short rappels can be avoided by insecure traverses or scree downclimbing

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left car 3:30 am, summited 4:30 pm, tag teamed rappels down gully, started crossover traverse near sundown, took wrong gully and spent an hour downclimbing some of the worst steepest loosest scree around, bivied at low col between parkes and fraser tower not long thereafter with running water nearby.


got up the next morning and back to car before noon - slowed last 3 hrs by dug's sprained ankle.


route details: there are at least two stuck cams, gave both a brief jiggle but the route was too crowded to spend much time working on extracting either one


definitely worth bringing a helmet

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That was my first time past the bivi ledge actually, and my first time to the main summit of Slesse. I still need Fraser Tower, the south peak, 4th summit, and Station D to collect the complete set.

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