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Dod's Jam alternate


rl23455

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Dastardly Crack 5.9? I think not. IMO.

i'd agree more whole-heartedly if i could reliably climb 5.9 :)

 

still, that thing is fucking hard-hard, and w/ a crack that makes the gear kinda sketch in places...

 

yeah u pretty much solo at ur limit..... or right below your limit, which if you think about it, is pretty fucking retarded.... :crazy:

Edited by pink
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can anyone provide more beta on Dod's Jam alternate 5.9? I'm a little put out about doing the 10c Dod's Jam. I'm guessing though the alternate is lichen and dirty...

T

 

i'd go with what steve said, the dod's finish is great too and is the path less traveled, if your into that sorta thing :)

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i've done the original dod's finish several times - it's scary and pretty gross - first you have to stand in the peregrine's nest to belay, covered in shit n' fur n' feathers n' fins n' what not - at the end of that pitch you end up climbing up through a crack that's draining another such nest (maybe a vulture's though?). at this point you're on your own for anchors, and the path of least resistance winds aroudn such that the drag ends up being nasty. eventually you wind up below a big old fixed bong, where there's a 1-move wonder of 5.9 that is hard, hard. you can french through it though. now you have just a few meters of wandering through poison oak before arriving atop the norseman's head, where there's a bit more oak to contend with

 

worth doing once, i suppose - be careful up there, there's lots of big blocks covered in moss to send rainign down on climbers at the base - oleg once kicked off a 200 lb chunk when he fell at the crux - was certain he'd killed opdyck and was sick w/ fear until we got back down there to look for the greasy spot :)

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Dastardly isn't particularly hard for 5.9

 

You boys just need to get out and live a little. It'd be 5.8 at Index...and 11b at Squamish ;^)

 

I like this sentiment...my first trip to Index this summer was a kick in the ass. I can't wait to get up to Squamish now

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