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Jake_Gano

New double/twins for ice

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My ice ropes are about two seasons past due for replacement. I'm looking at new ropes that can be used as half ropes or twins. What's the best rope in this category? The Metolius Monster 7.8 caught my eye...

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Hey guys, dude asked for half/twin ropes, BW Ice Floss are TWIN ropes only, their dry treatment is "double dry" but that ain't making them a "double rope"......

 

Been using Sterling cords in 7.7mm (twin) and 9.2 (single/double), 9.4 and 9.8 and like those a ton, their twin/half is the Photon at 7.8, have used the Monster cords and they are sweet too.

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I'm a big fan of 8.5 diameter ropes. That way I can use them for ice, rock, alpine or glacier travel and use a single rope on moderate routes. Likewise the 8.5s I've had have lasted a bit longer than my 8s. If you have money for a quiver of ropes a pair of 7.8s and a pair of 8.5s and a10-something for cragging is ideal... But if not go with the 8.5s.

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I'm a big fan of 8.5 diameter ropes. That way I can use them for ice, rock, alpine or glacier travel and use a single rope on moderate routes. Likewise the 8.5s I've had have lasted a bit longer than my 8s. If you have money for a quiver of ropes a pair of 7.8s and a pair of 8.5s and a10-something for cragging is ideal... But if not go with the 8.5s.

 

 

I agree. I have double 8.5 (Edelweiss Everydry Sharps) that inspire confidence when using only a single strand and when climbing with a party of three with the followers on a single strand. I use 50 meter cords which work extremely well for alpine, unless the route has 60 meter raps established.

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ERRRR, again for the OP, anti thread drift etc.

 

Think he was just askin' about twin/half ropes guys......

 

Would add Mammut Phoenix 8mm as a VERY sweet set I got to enjoy thanks to a partner.

 

They are a bit thicker but same gm/m as the Sterling Photons if memory serves.

 

Kinda enjoyed bopping along with the old clip that strand, clip this strand thing, seemed better than fumbling twin clips and the rapping was swoovy!

 

BTW Happy Labor Day!

 

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Jake;

PMI makes a nice dry half/twin (the best multiple use rope I've found) - it's the Verglas 8.1mm X 60M; at REI for $160 each. :tup:

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Jake;

PMI makes a nice dry half/twin (the best multiple use rope I've found) - it's the Verglas 8.1mm X 60M; at REI for $160 each. :tup:

 

I have one of these as a 100 m bicolored roped that PMI made for me. It is a great rope and is rated as a half/twin. I'd buy another.

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ERRRR, again for the OP, anti thread drift etc.

 

Think he was just askin' about twin/half ropes guys......

 

Would add Mammut Phoenix 8mm as a VERY sweet set I got to enjoy thanks to a partner.

 

They are a bit thicker but same gm/m as the Sterling Photons if memory serves.

 

Kinda enjoyed bopping along with the old clip that strand, clip this strand thing, seemed better than fumbling twin clips and the rapping was swoovy!

 

BTW Happy Labor Day!

 

I've climbed on both the Mammuts and the Sterling Photons. Both are solid ropes, though I'm still slightly nervous on mixed terrain with <8 mm ropes...

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have used petzl dragon flies and sterling nanos. Petzls fuzzed fast as their ropes tend to. Sterlings have seen 1.5 seasons of ice and 2 of alpine rock. have held up great, maintained a good stiff hand, pretty strong sheath against crampons and sharp edges. Very good dry treatment compared to mammut and petzl. I use a folded one for single pitch cragging. I will buy them again.

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have used petzl dragon flies and sterling nanos. Petzls fuzzed fast as their ropes tend to. Sterlings have seen 1.5 seasons of ice and 2 of alpine rock. have held up great, maintained a good stiff hand, pretty strong sheath against crampons and sharp edges. Very good dry treatment compared to mammut and petzl. I use a folded one for single pitch cragging. I will buy them again.

 

Sterling Nanos are singles...?

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Sterling Nano 9.2 is single and half certified.

 

For ice, I've been using Sterling Photon 7.8 in 70 and they're phenomenal - they stay dry, don't fuzz, don't tangle much - for skinny ropes anyway.

 

Had the Petzl Dragonfly 8.2, absolute crap. They had fuzzed and started soaking up water like a sponge after three routes. They also tangled like nothing I've ever seen before or since. Returned them.

 

Curious to try the new Petzls (now made by Edelrid... coming spring '14)

 

Mammut is always a good option, too - for ice I'd go Phoenix 8.0. Have used the Phoenix 8.0 and Genesis 8.5 extensively and would highly recommend either.

 

Had Edelweiss 8.2s and they were quite good as well, though didn't stay as dry as the Sterling or Mammut ropes.

 

There are some interesting options out there these days... say, a Mammut Serenity 8.7 with a Phoenix 8.0 gives you the option to climb on a single with a tag, or use them together as halfs or twins...

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Don't buy the 7.8mm monsters. They are really soft and handle quite badly and tangle where stiffer ropes would not, especially when wet.

 

We used Kyle Flicks 8mm ropes recently (Petzl I think) and they handled substantially better, much stiffer with a really nice feel. Maybe Kyle will chime in.

 

Also. I have been using the twin/ monsters for a few years, and the diameter is fine, they bounce quite a bit while rapping but otherwise at 5lbs/ rope for 60m.... top, never worried about them being too thin. Jake

Edited by Woodcutter

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