mtep Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 FYI: The second bolt protecting the crux traverse on Let It Burn's second pitch is currently hangerless. It fell off while my partner was seconding the pitch and the nut and washer fell to the base. Hopefully someone can get it back up there soon as it would be a bit heads up without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensHolsten Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 Oh man! No good. If anyone is heading up that way, get a hold of me (jensholsten@gmail.com) and I'll provide the hardware for replacement. I won't be able to make it up to CBR until October (if at all), but I will fix it if I'm able. Â You like the route Max? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Consider throwing a stainless lock washer on there too. Perhaps one of those nylon threaded lock nuts? That should help it stay in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtep Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 I ended up leaving the hanger at Aaron JS's place because I was dropping off something else on his porch on my way out of town. Â The route is killer! The second pitch is one of the coolest pitches of climbing I've done anywhere, let alone 300' off the deck in the alpine. The two 11+ pitches felt way harder to me than the 12a pitch though. I suck if I can't stand on my feet... Â In other news, I think I saw you and Sol coming out of the bugs. I was just pulling into Applebee as you guys headed out. Looks like it was a productive trip. Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 its official. the crux is not the crux on Let it Burn. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 I'm assuming it was a stainless bolt which appear to have problems keeping the nut tight. Possibly due to the lower torque requirements. I've put in a few hundred in the last few years and just started using a bit of blue Loc-tite. I've started seeing loose hangers all over the place and they are almost all stainless. surprising people haven't made using loc-tite standard practice, it should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 Good call Mikey. I do that on most of the loose wedge/triplex bolts that I come across. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 I wonder if Loc-tite will stand up over time as well as a lock washer or nylon locking nut? Or maybe there are other considerations that make the latter options unattractive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 The hanger in question is on the 3rd-to-last piece in this photo, and you can reach it from the biggest hold on the pitch - it would be not unreasonable to get there and put a hanger/nut back in place on lead while on the projecting flake. Sorry to ruin your onsight. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 Hanger has been replaced, unfortunatly hand-tightened only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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