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[TR] Incredible Hulk - Sunspot Dihedral, IV 11b 8/3/2013

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Trip: Incredible Hulk - Sunspot Dihedral, IV 11b


Date: 8/3/2013


Trip Report:

I love the Sierra! And why not, with splitter weather, beautiful bomber granite, mostly moderate approaches and especially because of walls like this!


Incredible Hulk



But I must backtrack a bit...

Trish and I had a few days off so we made plans to head up to the Hulk for a climb or two. But the drive is long so we decided to break it up by stopping to climb a route in Pine Creek along the way. So after leaving San Diego Thursday evening and bivying outside of Lone Pine that night, we drove up into Pine Creek just outside of Bishop Friday morning.


Looking up a somewhat smokey Pine Creek



There's a fairly large fire burning in the Sierra right now and from Bishop to June Lakes it's pretty darn smokey...fortunately it wasn't too bad and by the time we were climbing a breeze had cleared it out here in Pine Creek.


A very short hike brings you up to the Pratt's Crack Wall

Looking up the canyon



Some nice stone...looking up Rites of Spring



Trish stoked!






FUN roof on p2





Trish leading the 5.9 corner



She hasn't lead much trad so it was awesome that she cruised it!



Stoked to get through the wide funk at the top of the pitch!



The crux is thin fingers past a manky pin



Trish cruising the crux



Really fun climb and highly recommended...cannot wait to go back to Pine Creek! There's tons of great climbing up there all in a really beautiful setting!


So, after finishing the climb we quickly drove up to Bridgeport to get our permits and do the approach to the Hulk that evening. Unfortunately at the ranger station the permits for that day were gone! Bummer! Oh well, we got one for the next day and set about grabbing some food and beer in Bridgeport.

We camped at Mono Village at the end of Twin Lakes Road that night...I highly recommend you avoid the junkshow there and camp elsewhere!


After being sent off on a wild goose chase looking for a camp spot in the maze of dirt roads and paths in the rv park we finally found a shitty spot and got to work on a six pack and a bottle of whiskey by the fire....


...and then at 4am the alarm is blazing in my ear...time to get going.

Because we didn't get to approach the day before, today we were going to approach and climb, then camp out and hopefully do another climb the next day before heading home.


Finally around 5 or so we were on the trail up Robinson Creek, and after a leisurely 2 miles or so you cross the creek and head up Little Slide Canyon and climb steeply up towards the Hulk.


Early morning light on the approach



First views of the Hulk sitting high up in Little Slide Canyon





Trish passed out after reaching our bivy



Sunspot Dihedral shares the first pitch and a half or so of Positive Vibrations, and there were three parties on PV already so we lounged at camp for a while before heading up to the base of the wall




Looking up the route, with a climber at the p1 belay on PV...those guys ended up epicing BIG TIME! Later that night we watched their headlamps high on the route and then descending the gully sometime after midnight



We finally got started around 11:30...Leading p1



Trish following



Looking up the route, Sunspot takes the corner on the left, and Airstream takes the corner to the right



Trish following the money 11a corner







The route is characterized by long pitches...we did the 900' route in 5 pitches, mostly steep technical stemming and laybacking with a fun roof undercling and a hero hand crack or two thrown into the mix! HIGHLY recommended!


Looking up a the crux pitch, techy climbing past a couple of bolts along this rail to a few powerful moves and up into a beautiful corner



Trish past the crux about to enter the sunspot









10d corner high on the route, I think this might be the last pitch



Trish on the last pitch, in a beautiful position out on this arete



Trish really tired! I don't blame her, it was a long day!



The route tops out on the ridge and you have the option of a long easy climb to the summit and then walk off or a nice easy rap right back down...we chose rap

Trish rapping in pretty evening light



With our late start, and Trish struggling on a couple of pitches, we got back to camp just before we needed headlamps feeling good but tired. Trish was pretty worked tho...haha...

We made dinner, drank whiskey and watched two parties finish their climbs via headlamp late at night. We also discussed our options for the next day. We were wanting to climb a bigger harder climb, but the idea of taking on a long hard climb, then hiking out and then driving home sort of put us off, so we decided just to sleep in and then hike out, saving the harder climbs for another trip...


One last look on the way out...we'll be back!






Edited by TeleRoss

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So cool. I need to get a place in Bishop.

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Wow Ross you're living the dream. California sun, pretty lady who climbs with you, and Sierra granite. Thanks for the story and pics.

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