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Sahale-Boston-Buckner beta

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Has anyone done Sahale-Boston-Buckner (N face)? Any advice?


Particularly I'm interested in:

1. how to find the "nice class 3 ledges" on Boston

2. easiest descent route

3. how is camping between Boston and Buckner?

4. for Buckner N face, is one axe + one technical tool sufficient, or do you really need two tools?


Also, does anyone know what condition Buckner N face is in at the moment?

Edited by APE

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1)We traversed too low. It is less than obvious than it might seem, so I guess I would say if it doesn't look like 3rd class you are in the wrong spot. Just follow the beta.

2)Horseshoe Basin across to Sahale Arm. Descend the SW route from Buckner.

3 What do you mean???? I don't see much advantage to approaching via Boston Basin unless you were to carry over because unless you down-climb the face you are kind of stuck going across Horseshoe Basin and back to Sahale.

4)One axe + one tool is sufficient


Current conditions: As of last weekend, we could see from Boston Glacier that there was still a line to be climbed, but it was melting out fast and there was a fair amount of brown strewn down the face. Take that as you may.


How is that for mediocre advice?



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And Boston basin is 100% not what I meant. I meant anywhere on the ridge between Boston and Buckner.

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