obsydian Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 (edited) Trip: Mox Peak SE Spire (Hard Mox) - Becky Date: 7/22/2013 Trip Report: Finally got the right folks, a rope gun to lead the hard stuff, great weather window and opportunity to climb Mox Peak SE Spire (Hard Mox) on July 22, 2013. Was part of a trip that climbed all top 100 peaks in the area (Mox Peak NW Spire, Redoubt, Rahm, Custer, Spickard) over a 6 day period. Tyler and Nelson completed all 6 on their first try, might be a first. Curt and I had done Redoubt and Spickard 10 years ago. Headed out at 6am from high camp on the Redoubt Glacier, beautiful area. From Col of the Wild, head up climbers right on a scramble path to minor ridge, follow cairns. From minor ridge continue traversing higher. Here's a picture of modest step Becky describes, good hand holds. After topping out on Ridge of the Gendarmes,scramble down and left heading towards snow filled gully. Pretty good set of cairns, but have to keep a watch out as little traffic in this area. Cross pretty hairy ledge, some handholds, got to trust your feet. Come to snow filled gully, downclimb or rappel, about 130' Cross over to next gully on nice broad flat section, this is now the gully system with rotten loose rock you will need to climb. You will see a left and right fork in the gully above, stay right (looks terrible), work your way to the right side above the right gully. 5th class moves part way up, we did a lead. Lead or scramble up the right side, do your best to not rain rocks down on your partners (may have to take turns climbing key sections) until you attain the col, this is the start of the main rock climb. Here is the start of the first pitch with our rope gun Tyler leading out Picture of entire first pitch up to the detached white column, Nelson belaying. Low 5th class climbing, but loose rock, difficulty setting pro, so long runouts. Second pitch heads up the ridge, if in doubt stay left. Third pitch is straightforward, can pitch to summit or stop halfway and scramble. On the summit! First page of register has copy of Fred's first ascent notes. We did 3 single rappels down to col, then 2 double rappels down the gully. First rappel station at top of gully looked pretty weak, so built another with cordellette and big steel rappel ring. Worked out well, good rappel station halfway down gully, can get out of the gully while others descend and stay out of rockfall. After last rappel, can walk off back to flat spot between gullys, then climb up snow filled gully and scramble back over Ridge of Gendarmes and back to Col of the Wild before you feel safe again! Took us 14.5 hours from high camp and back. And did this on my 55th Birthday, what a great birthday present! We were 41st party to ever sign in, but 3rd this year, and two more parties were in the valley getting ready to give it a shot, so getting more popular. Gear Notes: Standard rack, two ropes, ice axe and crampons for snow filled gully, extra slings to leave behind for rappelling. Approach Notes: Depot Creek to Ouzel Lake, then up to high camp on Redoubt Glacier, high camp is a beautiful area, we spent 2 nights there, good breeze, few bugs. Edited July 30, 2013 by obsydian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Now that's some real mountaineering. Thanks for the TR, though I'll admit it makes me sort of glad I'm not list oriented myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Nice work! You get hardman points for that trip. Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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