JasonG Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Trip: Nooksack Tower - Beckey-Schmidtke/Upper North Face Date: 7/22/2013 Trip Report: "But I'm losing my edge. I'm losing my edge, but I was there. I was there. But I was there." I couldn't push James Murphy's words from my mind as I stared down at several thousand feet of sketchy terrain from the summit of Nooksack Tower. Steve had made it happen to get Gord and myself up to this exposed perch, but I was beginning to think I didn't have what it took any longer to climb these types of routes. Of course, the climb had intimidated/scared me for years, so I really shouldn't have been surprised. Both the Beckey and Nelson descriptions didn't make it sound like a walk in the park, and it certainly wasn't. It didn't help that we got off route and onto the North face, making the climbing much harder than it needed to be (as we found on the descent of the proper Beckey rte.). But we had Steve along, and he was not to be defeated, so all worked out in the end. I'm just glad he led the harder stuff! For aspiring Nooksack Tower ascensionists my advice would be to go early to mid July to make the snow gully easier, and traverse hard left across 3 or so ribs as soon as feasible once you've climbed up and right from the snow gully. Then, basically traverse left until you get to 3rd/4th class gully that will take you to the summit. This is key, don't be pulled up and right by the numerous rap stations-these led to the North face . Alpine Select gives this variation a 5.7/.8 rating and it felt quite spicy in boots. Other than that, don't expect it to be relaxing! I was seriously humbled by Nooksack Tower on our 19 hour camp to camp ascent, including burning three(!) pickets on the double rope 'schrund raps in the dark. But, it is an amazing summit and a worthy adventure. Even if it shows you that you've lost your edge... As usual, my photos are probably better than my words: No paper, no problem. Nooksack Cirque trail register: The infamous Nooksack log crossing. Maybe the fact that we didn't walk across should have been the first indication that we were about to get schooled: The "trail" up to Price lake is pretty steep, though somewhat distinct: Scenic hiking up the moraine along Price Lake: Price Gl. icefall: The views from camp are OK: We actually used most of this on the descent to back up/create stations. It doesn't get climbed much: Starting up the gully luge run: Gordo, high on the route: The Price is no joke: Steve nears the summit: Seahpo and Jagged Ridge above the East Nooksack Gl.: Steve getting in range to rap over the double 'schrund. Steep!: Nooksack Tower!: Lovely Price Lake: Gear Notes: Steel crampons, axe, second tool, two ropes, 3-4 pickets, and lots of tat. We left a bunch of fresh stuff this year, but it doesn't get climbed much. If in earlier season, you probably can get away without a lot of the snow/ice gear. Approach Notes: Drop down and cross the Nooksack on a log after entering big timber on the trail. The "trail" to Price lake is pretty well defined if you look for it. It took us about 5 hours to camp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caleb ng Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 always love your pictures. always Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARBrandon Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 phenomenal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sepultura Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Way to go Choss Dogs! Been waiting for your TR Jason, and the pics are awesome as always. Hell of a handsome crew with Gordo AND Trent along. You have been tearing it up this Summer! We knew Trent would not be denied after the last time on the route. Solid work gentlemen! Me so jealous... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 NOT climbing the nutsack is a sign of latent homosexuality Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Sounds terrible, great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZakG Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Wow. Glad you didn't get smashed by something. Are they ever going to put a via ferrata up there? I can wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Don't be so hard on yourself. That's not exactly daddy climbing up there. Amazing pics as usual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Nice TR! I think Nooksack is maybe the coolest summit in Washington. Certainly on the top ten. At the summit you feel a long way from home, eh? I'm pretty sure you'll keep climbing. Keep posting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbk Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Poom! Getting after it! Stoke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) That's funny Darin, because that is exactly what I was thinking- "This is no place for a young father!". And Matt, I agree, I can't think of another summit where the descent is so involved stressful except maybe Lincoln or Assassin Spire. Although I imagine that some of the seldom climbed Pickets must be similar. And there is no doubt I will be climbing for many more years, these kind of trips make you appreciate the amazingly diverse backyard we have in the Cascades. I'm glad that folks enjoyed the photos - I needed to have something to remember the climb by as I probably won't be back, unless the NPS puts up the via ferrata Zak was talking about. We could make it a family ascent with our kiddos. Edited August 1, 2013 by JasonG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Lincoln? Involved? Couldn't be EZier - you just retrace your steps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 We could make it a family ascent with our kiddos. Personally as long as I'm alive I never want my kids getting anywhere near Nooksack Tower. Backpacking, backpacking is nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 So true- so very, very true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason4 Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Wow! Solid climb and inspiring pictures as always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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