[TR] Nesakwatch Spire AKA Mini Bugaboos AKA paradise - Dairyland 7/28/2013

[caleb ng]

Trip: Nesakwatch Spire AKA Mini Bugaboos AKA paradise - Dairyland

 

Date: 7/28/2013

 

Trip Report:

Hello All!

 

UMmmm okay... That last crack makes the first crack on Juno's clean break look like Choss!

 

Just went to the most beautiful place on earth next to the bugaboos & next to yosemite. Dare I compare?

 

again let me do this in hastily written bullet point style, since i want the time between information dissemination and people climbing in this joint to be as short as possible.

 

1) Views of Slesse/Baker/Shuksan and surrounding cascades were immensely mind boggling

 

2) Climbed the most beautiful crack I have ever set my eyes and paws on. Potentially a 65/70 meter splitter crack if followed in its entirety, starting with hands and ending in fingers. I split off where the hands end before the fingers start as i chose the early exit since i personally would've needed a quadruple rack haha. So has anyone done the finger crack exit? ( I might actually recheck this post to find out!! )

 

3) Okee Dokee. Gotta say, i've never done a route with So little beta. I.e. I looked at the face and followed a line. Mark Leclerc gave me the recommendation and when I read his trip report combined with Becky's book, which called it the best line on the face [end of his beta], and I thought, "I think it is calling me."

 

TOTALLY got lost in the mid part of the climb, ended up aiding up some c1+ foolery, got back on route whilst my trepidation subsiding, (YES, TREPIDATION) and finally saw perfect finger cracks line me up to the summit like a 747 at O'hare. When that particular finger crack deposited me at the most beautiful crack i've ever seen... well..... i took a picture.

 

4) Point FOUR. Apparently there is ethic of not revealing so much about the climbs here. Well, I for one am abstaining from that particular ethic, to a certain degree anyways. Why? Because such great climbing, and what i consider to be the most beautiful place on earth should be shared. Why? Because there are so many great climbs AND potential great climbs to be had, but I needed to nut tool out many of the crud for gear placements and i was hoping if you come ( yes you ) then it will turn into an alpine squamish. Lastly i solidified my stance when upon the descent, we met a prolific climber who mentioned that there was quite a 'upturned nose' attitude among some more better climbers to ward off the less seasoned, and that he agrees the whole area should see more traffic. Well i figure, I'm not going to post beta per say, but how about now some photos to complement marc's trip report!! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=902482

Hopefully that'll whet your appetite, and you know what? we were the only ones there for basically the entire weekend.. Hummm..........By the way if someone doesn't want beta, i guess they could just not search online for it.. I GUESS.

 

whatdy'a think?

 

ALL THE PICTURES HERE:

http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/

 

p.s. how did i not know about this place as it is literally my backyard?!

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

#4

and doubles.

 

Approach Notes:

above 49th parallel kinda stuff

needs a gondola

Edited July 29, 2013 by caleb ng

[Le Piston]

There's a little more beta in Alpine Select by Kevin McLane. I always had my eye on Mt. Rexford, but never made it up there. Nice pictures...like to see more. Thanks for sharing!

 

[JasonG]

Pretty stellar up there, eh? You even made the haul to the upper camp which isn't a small feat with full rack and such. Love the photos!

[G-spotter]

There's a little more beta in Alpine Select by Kevin McLane.

 

None of the west face routes are in AS because they we all put up after AS came out. So, no there isn't.