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chris

What next in Darrington?

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So my first - and only - route to date in Darrington has been Dreamer on the Green Giant (which I'm embarrassed to admit I've done three times). I'm going to correct this gross oversight tomorrow, but everything looks SO GOOD. So I'm asking you - what's your favorite Darrington route? If you're favorite is something on the Giant, please tell me your second favorite. I'm trying to go somewhere new!

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If you like Dreamer, you're probably going to like most routes up there. If you feel like a shortish trail approach, go check out 3 O'clock Rock. Quality longer routes are Silent Running (9+), Total Soul (10b) and Penny Lane (10c).

 

If you're up for a more adventurous outing, head up the Granite Sidewalk (sticky footwear!) to Exfo. Good choices there are Blueberry Buttress (8+), Westward Ho (9) or Dark Rhythm (10c).

 

If you could only do one more Dtown route...ever, I'd go with Total Soul. Have fun Chris and bring lots of H2O!

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If you liked Dreamer, I'm assuming you are looking for longer routes and for routes 5.9 or 5.10. For a straight-forward approach and good clean fun, I think Total Soul on Three O'Clock Rock is hard to beat (Silent Running, nearby, is easier and also very good). Exfoliation Dome, with a scrambling approach and a bit more complexity to reach the top and to descend, is well worth a visit. The newer routes left of the West Buttress are all good, getting progressively harder and also including more variety in climbing style as you move from right to left. For more adventure head over to Squire Creek.

 

By the way: if you leave the car by 7:00 a.m., you can climb the west facing routes on Exfoliation Dome and complete the crux pitches before the sun hits them if you are efficient.

 

 

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if you finish the total soul or silent running and you got more energy to burn, do a quickish run up the old time classic "the kone" or meander around on the big tree routes. see a recent matt p tr for some photo stoke on this area.

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For "The Kone," I think the first two and a half pitches of "Till Broad Daylight" are slightly easier but also more fun. After that, the original Kone route is for sure the way to go.

 

I'd like to look at a link to "Cornucopia" on the right. I think there is probably a four pitch 5.8 climb, more or less straight up, that could be descended with a single 60mm rope. If anybody wants to explore it, let me know.

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I'll take this opportunity to put a plug in for a route I completed last summer.

Ancient Melodies Good beta for the route.

Mostly well protected, by Darrington standards, 5.10 climbing with a short 5.11 crux, that can be easily french freed. Check it out, it is somewhat different then your standard Darrington fare.

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I'd like to look at a link to "Cornucopia" on the right. I think there is probably a four pitch 5.8 climb, more or less straight up, that could be descended with a single 60mm rope. If anybody wants to explore it, let me know.

I'm game, I'll email you guys

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60 mm rope? Is there a new standard length I don't know about? :) Sounds like a fine project-

 

MH

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Thanks everyone - we did Matt's suggested mash-up of Till Broad Daylight and the Kone. Very worthwhile, except I'd say to do the first two pitches of TBD and then switch right over to the Kone. Equally run out, but better bolts.

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The bolts on Broad Daylight are probably OK. I do use the word "probably" but I can tell you that I've been involved in pulling and replacing the first three pitches of the route (these are normally climbed as two), and those bolts are very strong. But they don't instill confidence after climbing on new hardware when, after the third belay, you encounter the old 5/16 buttonheads.

 

And, I should clarify, that I usually only clip two of those Broad Daylight bolts after leaving the belay that both routes share and then get back on The Kone. There are some though-provoking runouts there, but it is not too crazy if you've done much slab climbing before. If not, you'll pucker up a bit to reach the rappell station on top of what the topo's show as the third pitch of The Kone but it is not too bad because the runout part leading to that rappel station is easy. Rappel from there right back to your pack.

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If not, you'll pucker up a bit to reach the rappell station on top of what the topo's show as the third pitch of The Kone but it is not too bad because the runout part leading to that rappel station is easy.

 

And that was exactly the case for us! :)

It was certainly good climbing - we continued another two pitches, then rapped down the left side of the headwall (Gastro? I forget the name) with a single 70m.

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