[TR] Mount Adams - Adams Glacier 7/21/2013

[Jason L.]

Trip: Mount Adams - Adams Glacier

 

Date: 7/21/2013

 

Trip Report:

If anyone is climbing this in the next week or two would you keep an eye out for two ice screws with Hello Kitty stickers on it?

 

Lucky to have a free weekend to climb with two friends (Todd and Katie) on a route that's still in pretty good condition. Bigger bonus was having my old PCT buddy Fitz Manley and our dogs join us for the hike in.

 

Maybe I'm jaded but I found the dusty hot approach unpleasant. The bugs are out at lower elevations right now but good news is they are minimal above 7,000' which is where we camped. Great campsite in the alpine meadows before the moraine which meant still another two hours to get to the base of the route the next morning but at least we weren't camping on snow. Nicer spot than camping at the moraine lake for sure.

 

Started at 3:30am and at the base of the route two hours later. Roped up and found the snow in great firm condition. No protection due to the nice sun cups on the route. Took a little bit of time to route find through the icefall but my partners found the way through pretty efficiently. We found a ramp near the far left back corner that took us up to a crack that allowed us to reach the top of the "cliff".

 

The rest of the route moved briskly, with us hugging the right for the next crevasse (thanks APE!). Some time after 10am we reached the top of the route and dropped the rope. That's when I discovered I was missing two screws . We had no desire to walk the 1/2 mile over to summit as we had all been there a couple of times before.

 

Down the dry loose North Ridge which sucks. Almost more tempting to glissade Adams Glacier.

 

 

Gear Notes:

a few screws and maybe a picket. Two tools were helpful for the slush fest found in the ice fall.

[Dchromey]

Great job! Awesome pics! Makes me want to go do the adams glacier now!