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telemarker

Mercy Me to the Split Pillar

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The traverse from the 2nd pitch of Mercy Me to the base of the Split Pillar is one of the more funky pitches I have ever done. Both for the leader and the follower. Anyone ever experience this gem? It's been while since I've been that gripped on second balancing my way through near blankness. Chris Martin did am outstanding lead on this one, though following it felt like a lead as well.

 

And then the Split Pillar... wow. What can you say about that?

 

Some eye candy:

 

DSCN0867.JPGDSCN0870.JPGDSCN08752.JPGDSCN08761.JPG

Edited by telemarker

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Nice pics! That is a sweet crack, innit?

 

My follower on that traverse claimed I hung out for ages in the middle of the crux fiddling with gear; somehow I managed to find just the right hold for balance, I guess.

 

 

What else did you get on up there, bro brah?

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Next time, try entering w/ cruel shoes. It adds a significant amount of climbing.

 

How is the last pitch traverse of cruel shoes? Reasonable or 5.10d unprotected slab?

Edited by telemarker

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Cool and super fun climbing! I was on the upper pitches of Peasants route while you guys were climbing the pillar (I recognize that dayglo green shirt). Sounded like you guys were having some fun with the whooping coming from that way :)

 

Was a nice weekend to be up in Squamish!

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The last 10d pitch of cruel shoes is essentially a thin face sport pitch with closely spaced bolts. Pitch 3 is similar in character to the traverse from mercy me to the split, maybe slightly harder but I remember the gear being pretty good.

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For the record you can get descend from the base of Perry's Layback to the ground on a single 70m ;)

*There is one steep rap in there but it's quite manageable.

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Yo John,

 

Do Cruel Shoes, Grand Wall, Roman Chimney finish. Be sure to hit the 11D roof crack variation on Roman Chimneys. Great outing. This might even be better than Freeway....surely a lot more pitches and milage.

 

 

 

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