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AT84

Kautz Glacier

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Has Anyone been up to the Kautz Glacier lately or have any conditions of the route?

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Returned this morning. Excellent climbing. One tool and one axe should be good to go. Any specific questions?

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I was up there Wed-Thur last week. Great conditions! Used a mountaineering axe + 1 technical tool. There are big cups for your feet everywhere.

 

Did not need to place any pro. But bring a few screws and pickets anyway, as it'll keep getting icier as the season goes on. There is a fixed line for accessing the route, which we found helpful (it's an awkward move).

 

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We didn't like the rockfall that came down on us in The Fan on the way up, so we crossed the Nisqually from the Wilson on the way down, many other parties were doing the same. Nisqually was pretty game-on though. Dozens of good campsites on the rocky ridge all the way from 9200 to Camp Hazard. We ran into a surprising number of groups camped on the snow that said they didn't know of these, and were camping on the snow only because they had heard that camping at Camp Hazard proper was dangerous.

 

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By fixed line I assume the old rope we found 5 years ago and left as a rap from the bivy sites. It was better than the other piece of crap rope that was left there. Normally, I would have carried it down rather than leave crap on the hill but we went up and over. Something I recommend to folks as going down the DC is quick.

 

If the two icy sections are sun cupped enough that no pro is required I would suggest leaving the second tool. Should already have a couple of screws for crevasse rescue so take a couple more and practice foot work on steeper sections and set pro when needed. Climbing with one tool and being comfortable on steeper terrain is a real asset (i.e. faster than two tools).

 

 

While from 2008 here are some photos for ya.

 

http://www.poulinenvironmental.com/poulinenvironmental/Kautz_Glacier_2008.html

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