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Dru

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Going ice climbing for the first time at Big Four. I felt like a kid at Christmas (I probably acted like it too). Zebra Zion at Smith. Such a beautiful, obvious line. The climbing was interesting enough not to be boring, but not so hard that I couldn't enjoy it. Third, posting on this board!

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The most fun - climbing in Peru, there was a group of four British climbers (2 guys, 2 girls) following the same itinerary as me and my partner. So we hooked up to share burro, and cook costs and I thought that both couples were hooked up.

 

Well, one of the girls just happen to be trekking/traveling with them and following up the walk up peaks. So while waiting to take our turn on Alpamayo (at high camp 17,000') she jumped in my tent to share a custard dessert I was grubbing. Before I knew it we were zipping up the tent fly, spreading out the sleeping bags and going for it. Rolly polly at 17' wahoo -

Edited by Ropegun2002
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Feeling pretty cocky after climbing a big wall early in our climbing careers, my brother and I went over to Middle Cathedral Rock to climb the standard first five or whatever pitches of Central Pillar of Frenzy. We had been celebrating ouir success the night before and we didn't get there early. A husband and wife team from Britain, who appeared to be moving rather slowly, were already on route when we got there and we talked about maybe we should try something else. So we sat around for a bit, and two other guys showed up -- Jim Bridwell and a partner of his who were also feeling pretty cocky. We agreed that it would be cool to climb together, and that more would make merrier if we had to wait for a slow party. So we set off, two leaders at a time, climbing one just above the other, sharing pro sometimes, placing separate gear other times. Joking and jiving the whole way, we would pull up at the belay each time the husband lead out, and tell jokes to the wife while we belayed our partners up ("hey, don't step on my fingers, you numbnuts... but seriously, what about that elephant in the whorehouse--what'd he say to the bartender??"). She wasn't real impressed with our brand of humor, but we had a good time...In the bar that evening, Jim announced that he had been celebrating his wife's just having given birth to baby Layton. He should have brought cigars on the climb.

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Hmm ... Outer Space would have to be on the list. First trip to Smith way back in '92, during which DFA did his first lead, which was Churning ... ha ha, no, it was 5-Gallon Buckets (which was then a new route). Too many days on too many fun routes to even think of. Doing the Pioneer Route at night and camping behind the nose boulder up on the Monkey, and bringing way too much shit, which we hauled with a Gri-Gri, then waking up and booking it back to Bend for work. Any of hundreds of post-climbing, kicking-back-around-the-campfire-with-beer evenings. And on and on ...

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Hmm... Well, climbing at Smith on Christmas eve, Christmas day and boxing day one year. Actually got a bit of a sunburn on the 24th.

 

This year though, I climbed with a friend's cousin from Ireland while he was in town. I took him up Deidre one evening and Smoke Bluff Connector followed by Penny Lane on the other (rained on the weekend). The drive from Vancouver with this guy sitting next to me, rubber-necking up the sea to sky and repeating "I can't believe Squamish is your evening crag!" and "do you know how lucky you are!?"

 

That was pretty fun.

 

bigdrink.gif

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(As always)it's a tie for me between my first climbing trip ever and the next climbing trip I'm about to take.

 

First: Springtime multi-pitches at Castle Rock, sleeping in the parking lot because the campsites were covered in snow, drinking beer under the stars (just about the time I turned 21), skipping class and listening to a bluegrass cover of "Gin & Juice" in my buddy's Subaru.

 

Next: Going on a mission to Red Rocks, then after mission is complete, going on a bender in Joshua Tree for a week.

 

Another good topic from Dru. He's having a consistent season here in Magic Pretend Climbing Land.

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cracked:Third, posting on this board!

smileysex5.gif

Mine would be lefroy in Canadian Rockies. Got buzzed for the first time in the abbot pass hut. Talked to someone guy from england whos climbed all over the world. Then climbed lefroy with a guy from Edmonton who was a blast to climb with

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"Springtime multi-pitches at Castle Rock"

 

Good call. In the Spring, the swallows soar about and the river roars below Castle Rock; snow covers the high country and the high peaks are not really open yet for alpine rock climbing - the crag is at its best. I've had some good times at Castle Rock this time of year.

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3 storm days on the Monarch in a tent with 2 others. We played cards, ate, played harmonica and tin whistle, studied Biology, and were read "Into Thin Air"; we then looked at our watch and it was 10:30am ON DAY ONE! let the fun begin! It WAS really was fun though. I hadn't laughed so much in a looooonnnnggggg time.

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Binned according to decade:

 

50s - learning to tie my shoelaces

60s - first roped climb: Friction Face, Quincy Quarries

70s - boulder diving, shale ledges party, Gunks

80s - comparing Seattle to Chicago, climbingwise

90s - 6 weeks of sun after moving from Toronto to Vancouver

00s - doing the Kloochman Park traverse late evenings

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Just barely flying out of the Clemenceau Group in the BC Rockies as a snowstorm englufed the range after a week of solid weather and 100% success rate on all peaks with some fun canadians. Getting ripped at the Old Trapper in Golden afterwards realizing the incredible luck we had.

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These are all good stories! Here is the one I am remembering as the most fun at the moment:

 

Second ever REAL road trip of my life we were down is Josh around Christmas and the wind was howling and it was freezing and starting to snow. "What the F@!$%&*! I thought you said it never rains in the desert!" madgo_ron.gif So we looked at a map and decided to go to Red Rocks cause it was dry.

 

Drove in late at night and snuck 6 people into a 2-bed motel room way out in the outskirts of town ended up costing us like $2.50 per night. So the next day we went to the Loop Road (not knowing any better) and climbed some horribly loose, runout, easy, sandy face at 3rd Pullout aka Sandstone Quarry, which is apparently only ever climbed by top roping Mormon church groups tongue.gif After 2 leads on that wall we were all like "This Sux!" and went hiking up into the hills between the loop road and Calico Basin. Found some cool canyons and bouldered on good red rock in the warm sunshine for like 4 hours. Then went into town, found Desert Rock Sports and bought a guidebook. Went back to motel, showered, spiffed up and decided to Make The Scene on the Strip. cool.gif

 

So we were wandering around for hours drinking beer in public and checking out the weirdness of Vegas. Well eventually we decided When in Rome Do Like The Romans and lets check out a buffet. On the way to the buffet my bro "Ric" won like $75 on a nickel slot so it was drinks on him.

 

At the buffet it was HCL.gifcheeburga_ron.gifbigdrink.gifcheeburga_ron.gifHCL.gifbigdrink.gif until we were all kinda crazy.gif whoa too much chubbin! So we were sitting around letting the food settle a bit. I had a half a plate of shrimp or something I just couldnt eat but still wanted to get dessert, and I figured if I went back for dessert without eating everything on my plate they would kick me out for not eating all i thought I could eat Geek_em8.gifcantfocus.gif

 

SO my cunning plan: I waited till a bunch of fat people at the next table got up and left and then took my half full plate o food over to their table and added it to theirs. Then we all went and got dessert. Just got back to our table, and here comes the fat folks back to theirs! shocked.gif

 

They sit down and OH MY GOD SOME ONE BROUGHT US FOOD! shocked.gifone says. We are all sitting there trying to look invisible....Then one woman at the table theorizes " Well, its shrimp and it looks good - maybe the waiter thought we should try some"* So they all dig in and start scarfing down my leftovers eek.gif. At this point, my friends Ric and Tami just cant keep silent anymore and started laughing and howling. Well the rest of us started laughing too and could'nt stop. We laughed for about 20 minutes non stop. I think Tami lost control and dampened her panties at one point she was laughing so hard - Ric, Doug and I had tears running down our faces constantly from laughing so much, and Carlos laughed so hard he re-injured a strained chest muscle and could barely climb for 2 days afterwards. True full on ROFLMAO yellowlaugh.gifyellowlaugh.gifyellowlaugh.gifyellowlaugh.gifyellowlaugh.gifyellowlaugh.gif

 

The next few days we did better routes and then went back to Josh for a week but surely that was one of the best times Ive ever had climbing. In fact I whipped the slides of that event out and showed em at Tamis wedding last year to embarrass her evils3d.gif

 

laugh.giflaugh.giflaugh.gif

 

* Of course these buffets are self serve and there are no waiters!

Edited by Dru
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