AaronB Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Trip: Torment Forbidden Traverse - TFT Date: 7/13/2013 Trip Report: Left the car Saturday morning with perfect weather which continued the entire climb. I did this route 9 years ago and climbed torment via the SE face.. I wish I had done that this time. We chose to climb the gully and spent hours and hours fooling around on the SW face. We climbed way too high and had to rap down to the SE face anyway to access the ledges to the col for the start of the traverse. My recommendation is to just go straight up the SE face.. so much less of a hassle. And route finding is much more straight forward. The route was in great shape and the snow was perfect styrofoam. It was really secure. We bivied on a small ledge just before the 2nd and steep snow traverse as we wasted so much time on Torment (we also skipped bagging the summit). The bivy was beautiful but we had a stove malfunction and ended up not getting a hot dinner and having only 2 liters of water total melted (couldn't find a drip). That and my thermarest popped in the first 5 minutes of sleep. Ouch! The snow the next morning was icy and very secure. We didn't bring pickets but the snow would have been easily protected with them. The ridge was just as exposed and memorable as I remember with great views. We were a little tired and thirsty (no coffee or oatmeal) and only 1 liter of water each for the day. When we got to Forbidden col we counted 13 people on the west ridge and decided to bail as we have both done the W Ridge before and I was cranky thirsty. We rapped the gully in super speed time and raced to the the first water we found and OMG it tasted so good. Great fun and great partner. Did experience some nasty rock fall and took a big hit on my thigh ripping my pants and skin a little.. but mostly just a big bruise. Careful! Snow was perfect and no need to bypass. Overall we just needed to figure out a better system for simul climbing. We experienced too much rope drag. If I did it again, I think I'd just take a 60m half rope and half it so we would have only 30m between us. I'd be interested to hear thoughts on that? We were moving too slow I felt and was a little bummed not to join the clusterf*** of people on the W. Ridge of Forbidden. Oh, and don't count on drips. I don't remember the first traverse being this steep, maybe the camera angle? Gear Notes: 7 cams .4 to #2 with doubles of .75 and 1, 9 nuts (5-12 with a double of lucky 7) ice axe and extra tool (helpful but not essential) 17 single slings and 5 doubles only need one rope.. Approach Notes: Boston Basin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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