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[TR] Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 7/3/2013

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Trip: Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover


Date: 7/3/2013


Trip Report:

Hey all,


Just returned from a fun trip on Rainier going up the Kautz and coming down the DC over the July 4 holiday. We had great weather all days, and had maybe 40mph winds with 32F temps on the summit.


Conditions in the Kautz chute were a bit all over the place with about 6 inches of manky snow on top of ice. Higher up the chute in the steeper parts the ice was more prominent. We sunk a couple screws in through this part as a running belay. I was also happy to have 1 ice tool along with my standard mountaineering axe.


There is also, what I felt, was a pretty secure fixed line at the rock step prior to dropping onto the Kautz. Though still takes an awkward move or 2 to get past this section.


A couple good water sources on route up to about 12k, with an especially solid one about 200 feet above Castle camp.





Looking up the Fan: Rainier_Kautz_2013+021.JPG


Taking a rest while a couple guided teams clear the bottom of the chute: Rainier_Kautz_2013+046.JPG


Clearing the crux: Rainier_Kautz_2013+047.JPG


A team below: Rainier_Kautz_2013+058.JPG


Quick summit shot: Rainier_Kautz_2013+064.JPG


Upper DC: Rainier_Kautz_2013+073.JPG


Handlines through an ice fall on the upper Ingraham: Rainier_Kautz_2013+074.JPG


Party at Muir: Rainier_Kautz_2013+077.JPG


Gear Notes:

Standard glacier gear + an ice tool.


Approach Notes:


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Sweet pictures! I did the same (Kautz to DC carryover) a couple of weeks after your trip and conditions looked very similar. We opted to avoid the fan due to the debris, which your first photo captures.

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no, its not. fwiw we had plans to ski it in early june. the wind had other plans for us that night. wind kept most parties from summitting the mountain during that phase, but, success was had later in july, sans ski gear.

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and in the early season it doesn't look SUPER technical like it would be in the late season.


It is not super technical at all. Even late season when it gets icy as it is often sun cupped. IMHO many make it a bigger deal than it is. Take a single tool and a couple three screws. Carrying up and over is also the way to go.

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