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[TR] Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms 7/7/2013

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Trip: Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms


Date: 7/7/2013


Trip Report:

After spending eight days on Mount Rainier, it was nice to get on granite over the weekend. Highlight was climbing on the UTW Sunday. Freakin' love Index! The short of it:


David Holland - Lovin' Arms, 5.10c A0

  • Left parking lot at 7:58 am.
  • UTW base 8:30 am.
  • Climbing at 9 am.
  • P1, 5.9 - Chad.
  • P2, 5.10b - me.
  • P3, 5.10c - Chad.
  • P4, 5.10b - me.
  • P5, 5.11b - Chad w/ a fall and aid. Me w/ falls and aid. I hurt my left shoulder & used primarily my right arm to finish the pitch.
  • P6, 5.9 - Chad only, I was done. He topped out just before 2:00 pm.
  • We rappelled using rap stations down the face left of the DH/LA route and the reached the ground at 2:38 pm.




Pitch one



Top of pitch two



Pitch three





Pitch four





Pitch five



Pitch six



Gear Notes:

No crampons or ice axe!


Approach Notes:

No snow!

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nice photos, fyi you can avoid the 11b section by climbing higher in the chimney before traversing out right, you will get to a flake that allows you to traverse out right and rejoin the route above the 11b part. That makes this pitch 10c, still the crux for me though as it is harder than pitch 3 imo.

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Went that way the first time I did the route. It's definitely easier. Thought we'd give the hardman version a try this time and got spanked!

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birdie closure must be lifted then?

Yup, the closure is lifted. The ranger told me that he had heard there were two successful younguns.


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gotta get some of that bird mojo down here on the beatard-wand :)

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