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OlegV

[TR] Liberty Ridge - Erotic Suicide 6/29/2013

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Trip: Liberty Ridge - Erotic Suicide

 

Date: 6/29/2013

 

Trip Report:

The mountain almost blinded me because I betrayed two women and was cursed by a gypsy and a witch. They wanted to see me failed or die, but I just laughed at them and left the town. I wanted to solo the Ridge to prove my love to HIM in exchange to MY own immortality. We had each other now and forever. HE loved me unconditionally, leaving me with a sharp taste of blood in my mouth mixed with the feel of fear and extreme exhaustion.

 

For four hours I follow the climbing birds Tom, Joe and Patrick to the Curtis camp. I suddenly see a mountain queen Nastia sitting at the toe of the Carbon glacier - I am suddenly in a safe company of my friend. I think again, HE doesn’t play a dice, HE violently shifts our future. We live, we climb, or we die, not sure why.

We cross the Carbon bound by a thin rope...

 

The curse of the woman wasn’t strong enough to kill me. I hear a whipping sound as a solid cube of death hits the ledge, flies toward me, missing my head by an inch. I kiss the Ridge and push on up the mountain. A single push to the Thumb rock makes you tired when you are double-twenty, although there is no such thing as age, as we know it. There is no bad or good either. We are nothing but bio-recycling machines…up to the point when we get hit by a flying rock, fall in the crevasse, or die from a heart attack or overeating.

 

Patrick’s team is flying up the ridge as if they have invisible wings; we follow, reluctantly observing the approaching avalanche, spitting out the river of ice along the right slope of the ridge. It would kill us all if we lived in the alternative universe.

 

Finding comfort in the shade of the Willis Wall turns you into a slave of dark angels. They live here, wandering between slopes and ice cliffs, touching and dislodging piles of loose rocks, sticking out their sharp tongues, grimacing. As we try to prove our immortality, they flip a dice and play their games. I wonder where you go when you get chosen by a dark angel. I’d like to be a part of an ice cliff, and I will be, some sunny day…

 

At the Thumb rock we meet several other teams, love their company and laugh. We leave last at 3 am, following the deep tracks of our comrades. We see their faint headlamps glaring at the far distance. We follow a beautiful ridge line, enjoying easy climbing, bright stars, and the calmness of the night. The Ridge is simple, but the oxygen is sparse. Feeling tired, we get to the top of the snow ramp and rest, consuming liquid REI energy and Safeway leftovers. Our stomachs resist, but we insist on quick digestion and simple sugar for our muscles and brains.

 

As we get to the bergschrund, Nastia leads the ice pitch. Suddenly, as I follow, my sunglasses break exposing my left eye to a deadly Rainier sun, I drop a piece of pro, feeling irritated and angry at myself. I am still being cursed by a woman. Nastia lowers me into the crevasse to retrieve a piece. We push on…

 

We are finally standing at the base of the exit ramp looking at the Liberty Cap. Ignoring existing tracks, Nastia leads a steep and rotten pitch of black ice mixed with fresh snow and melting slash. Wet slide is very possible here. I follow, celebrating the arrival of the flat world of the Liberty Cap.

 

We descend…

 

 

Carbon from Curtis ridge:

9187027057_bdcecbcc3a_b.jpg

9187025797_90ea9d0306_b.jpg

9072905570_05fa0ffbea_b.jpg

9072978680_39a9a5d712_b.jpg

 

 

Liberty Ridge in the morning:

9187024073_43e145a955_b.jpg

 

 

Crossing Carbon:

9189822908_e15f4f2338_b.jpg

9196009765_fda4ec54fd_b.jpg

 

 

Joe and friends at the base of the shrund below Thumb rock:

9187022047_d158711cb7_b.jpg

 

 

To the Thumb!

9189821060_a7c5c09ac8_b.jpg

 

 

At the Thumb rock camp:

9189819912_e195cab64f_b.jpg

9187019519_cdf3c4c52b_b.jpg

9187019163_0e659677c8_b.jpg

9189818162_6b7a9c0a98_b.jpg

9189805814_33655fa8a5_b.jpg

 

 

Starting up the upper ridge in the morning:

9189817238_81118554f2_b.jpg

9187017283_1e1221159c_b.jpg

 

 

Liberty Gl.:

9189815048_60cc35827d_b.jpg

 

 

Pano from 13200':

9189813018_2f2446ce8c_b.jpg

 

 

Crossing the Liberty shrund:

9187012039_cdb8c6e131_b.jpg

9189785826_158ba2ebd3_b.jpg

 

 

Black ice to the summit ridge:

9186985871_8004df9b62_o.jpg

 

 

On the Liberty Cap:

9187010323_066cc2f695_b.jpg

9187009935_b00d7d05ec_b.jpg

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Oleg, thanks for the great trip and TR!

 

Now, Canadian Rockies! :rawk:

 

Huge props to the RockyJoe's team for letting Oleg to rope up with while on Winthrop! :tup: 3.5 hrs from the car to Carbon is way to go, guys!

 

Here is one more pic of Joe, Tom and Patrick crossing the Carbon seracs:

9189822626_634355aaa1_b.jpg

 

 

 

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This was a fun TR to read, and really enjoyed the pics.

 

Gonna climb this route someday when I grow up...

 

d

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Nice work! It's great to see what the route looked like a few days after we retreated. Too bad we didn't have a flexible enough window. Nice send! Oleg, how did Nastia's boots do for her? I was about to rock the Phantom Guides up there and was curious about her experience.

 

Nice send!

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I am still trying to figure out if Oleg was calling Anastasia a gypsy AND a witch, ... but seems from the epic summit shot with only 1 lens left in sunglasses that you are still alive Oleg so I guess not...

 

Nice one!

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Oleg,

 

Patrick here. Great meeting you and hanging out last weekend.. What a climb!

 

Glad to hear you guys made it to the top.. Pretty splitter day to stand on top of Rainier. Thanks for the trip report!

 

-Patrick

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Cale, Nil Desperandum, you will get it soon!

 

Re: boots. The primary purpose of my Phantom Guides was for ice cragging, but since most my single boots are heavily worn out, the PG begun get used for the bigger stuff like Lib Ridge or Ptarmigan IceCliff, as was yesterday, and now officially became my favorites.

 

As a matter of fact, two weeks ago I got a very extensive III degree burn on the arch of my foot and was really having second thoughts whether/how I will even make it to the base of the ridge. As we all know, the route requires fully functional pairs of extremities and the boots made it possible - I did not even notice I had them on :) .

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I am still trying to figure out if Oleg was calling Anastasia a gypsy AND a witch...

 

Haha, no, not me! I bet Oleg would need to elaborate more to clarify this :)!

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I am still trying to figure out if Oleg was calling Anastasia a gypsy AND a witch...

 

Haha, no, not me! I bet Oleg would need to elaborate more to clarify this :)!

 

tsyganochka moya, morganochka moya...

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Thanks for the review of the boots! Especially when you had an injury. I'm a believer. They seemed to do well to the approach and climb really well when we started up the steeper sections of the Carbon. Great climb!

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Guys, I am not crazy!!!! Mount Rainier is the place to regain your sanity and escape the world of misery and human lie!!!

 

 

 

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I am still trying to figure out if Oleg was calling Anastasia a gypsy AND a witch...

 

Haha, no, not me! I bet Oleg would need to elaborate more to clarify this :)!

 

tsyganochka moya, morganochka moya...

 

 

Read Russian classic, my friend :)

 

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I am still trying to figure out if Oleg was calling Anastasia a gypsy AND a witch, ... but seems from the epic summit shot with only 1 lens left in sunglasses that you are still alive Oleg so I guess not...

 

Nice one!

 

I got my face in the cake, but we did summit a big baby twice in the last 10 days!

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Great TR... We summited the day before you and enjoyed the solitude of having that side of the mountain to ourselves for our entire climb.

 

The fresh snow from the week before tested our endurance as we post-holed up the snowfields to thumb rock and beyond, but the cloud we climbed into at the top (visible from the first picture) gave us the most trouble, as we couldn't see more than a few feet in front of us and ended up camping up top for 7 hours until the sun broke through.

 

Going from the trailhead to Thumb Rock is definitely what I would do next time - though I'm glad we didn't plan on it as we spent a good amount of time navigating the glacier without any wands or tracks to follow. It looks like you may have seen the circles we went in before we found our way across that sketchy bridge you took a picture on top of!

 

Cheers,

Mike

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