Al filo Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 We had several TR for this route and may be people still planning to climb it, therefore some updates from the recent conditions (route completed yesterday 01 July): - Carbon Glacier: from the two tracks on the glacier, take the lower. The upper route soon will be impracticable, we crossed a snow bridge which soon will fall and the route finding will be difficult. - Thumb rock access: Get there as early as possible (I will recommend before 10am if it is as warm as last weekend), later, somebody is determined in throwing microwaves down the mountain. - Ridge conditions: the bare ice almost disappeared, with last warm-up even the tracks from previous teams sometimes helping and sometimes even doing difficult to progress due to soft snow, even better to make new track at some point. The upper snow ramp, where previously reported bare ice, now is a perfect stair path without any ice. We used only two ice screws at upper summit cap, above schrund, climbing on the right to give us some fan finishing the route, and two pickets. And now a refection about the climbing permits: I arrived to White River ranger Station on Friday at 5:00 pm asking for the climbing permit to start next day, the first response was to deny, reasons no camp spots available, that only it is available permit for !!one person!! and no for two, too many people, he issued all the permits allowed for the route... the rules are the rules... but,… as I am not use or prepared to accept the first response, I asked for consideration, to think that the people is moving, the permits issue in the morning would be for teams spending night in Curtis Ridge and we are one day behind (I conclude it is clear in the climbing permit where it is intended to spend each night at the mountain and the rangers should look at that, it appears that was not prepared to consider). After some conversation and questioning the difference to issue permit for one person or for two, that we can be prepare to make additional camp spot if necessary, etc… I got the permit and I had to thank the consideration. Result: we were totally alone in the mountain; one day ahead it appears there were four teams in the route but not in our schedule (what I tried to explain the ranger having a hard time). Conclusion: What it would happen if we accept the first response and we go home?. What it will happen in similar situations with the dreams of people coming from far away to do the route and the rules without foundation spoil the trip?... One last complaint: When I saw a gel wrapper on the tracks, I thought,… the wind, it happens to all of us,… when I saw the second for an energy bar, I was a bit upset,… when I saw the third, I said, pigs. Please do not litter the mountain; it is not so additional weight for your packs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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