Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Rad

cool climbs for hot days - ideas and new routes

Recommended Posts

OK 5.11 climbers. Where can we go when we don't have time to go to the mountains and don't want to bake on sunny granite at Index, or climb the same old lines at Nevermind and WWI, here are some ideas for new cool (literally) places to explore. Hopefully others will chime in with suggestions too:

 

1 - X38. Yep, it's true. There are a host of high quality 5.11s that stay cool at the Far Side. Jens' bouldery 11c on the left wall under the Block of Doom. There are a host of high quality bona fide 5.11s at Shangri-La. These go into the shade around 2pm. Two fun routes in deep shade all day and very close to Interstate Park lines are Third Stone from the Sun (11c) and Snaggletooth (11b? new last Friday). You can see this cliff in the woods below the S end of Interstate Park cliff band.

 

2 - Other routes at Little Si. WWI is fine, but you've probably been there, done that. Look into the Woods and Midlands areas in the early afternoon or later. Warm up on Goddess (10c), hop on Gold Rush (11b), jug haul on Godflesh (11a), and try Lay of the Land (12-).

 

3 - What else?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try this 5.10- route on the North Face of Big Four, a variation of the Tower Route that offers a nice crag climb outing for the first 5 or 6 pitches and gets no sun at all. If you crawl through the bushes and ferns to get there (bewildering for the first party of the season though others will follow their "trail" and it is not really that far into the jungle) it offers unique climbing on cobbles and it is definitely not 5.11 but I bet you'll find it entertaining. Good fun.

 

Mark rates these pitches 5.8 but I think most climbers will find them 5.9 or 5.10. And it is cool.

Trip Report

Edited by mattp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The inner walls at index get all day shade and are good climbing on hot days. Earwax wall is okay too.

 

The no name crag is good on a hot day. Maybe you have to hike or bike if the road is gated?

 

Equinox has one very good 11+ maybe more I was only there once, the 12- routes seem to be more endurance than power so those are good to work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not tell'n or the crowds will come :lmao:

Edited by LUCKY

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you go to Index and head up to Earwax, also check out some other first pitches on the left side, such as Dana's Arch. Drop below to Shady Lane. And head over to the Cheeks and do routes on the lower Cheeks. Just above, on the Black Sea, try the classic P1 of Wilman's Walkabout. Also, the chimney routes to the right might be cool in the afternoon.

 

At Lookout Point area, there is 'Shader' at Private Idaho and a few along the base of Duck Wall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×