Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      Huge thank you to Bellingham based The American Alpine Institute for being our sole sponsor, taking care of our hosting costs,  which is our biggest cost.  @Jason_Martin  of AAI reached out to me, and really wanted to support the forums.  They have supported us in the past,  and now stepped up to support us again.  They will be our sole sponsor for 6 months.   Big time, and they are a local climbing related company to boot!  
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Mt Stuart - Full North Ridge 6/28/2013

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt Stuart - Full North Ridge


Date: 6/28/2013


Trip Report:

No pretty pics, just a conditions report.

Taylor Brugh and I approached via Mountaineers Creek, descended Sherpa Glacier.

Approach is snow free except right near the base of the route.

Some pitches are wet. Offwith on the gendarme is wet. Fixed BD#1 right before offwidth, and #4 still fixed in crack.


There is some snow still on the route. The crack on the "slab with a crack" is filled with snow, although I suspect after the temps this week, it will be gone shortly. A few places required us to step on or across snow on route. The last pitch (of simulclimbing) has some snow you have to step through.


Sherpa glacier is still covered in snow and probably will be for a little while. crevasses are opening up - we crossed one small one near the top, 2 more (one big) a bit lower down. As always, keep an eye over your shoulder for rockfall. There were some very large boulders that came down while we were on the glacier.


Apparently there was a goat convention around our tent. As soon as we pitched, until we packed up the next night, at least 4, and up to 8? were around. Little to no fear of humans. The usual recommendations re safety. There's also a baby that would not fcuking shut up all night long, bleating at 30 second intervals. I guess they move to the core enchantments later in the season? :D


Approach Notes:

we followed a climbers path to cairns and then lost them though the boulder field up on the slope. on the way out we found then lost, then found (repeatedly) the trail that goes along mountaineers creek. ultimately we bushwacked out. I'd love to know where that trail starts.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

follow the stuart lk trail past the colchuck turnoff. it more or less goes straight for a while. at the first legit switchback, look left for the trail.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

A Canadian Wonderbear was found midway down the Sherpa Glacier. Please PM me if you would like it back...


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks like a beaver to me. Check out the tail and the teeth.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this