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[TR] Mt Stuart - Full North Ridge 6/28/2013


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Trip: Mt Stuart - Full North Ridge


Date: 6/28/2013


Trip Report:

No pretty pics, just a conditions report.

Taylor Brugh and I approached via Mountaineers Creek, descended Sherpa Glacier.

Approach is snow free except right near the base of the route.

Some pitches are wet. Offwith on the gendarme is wet. Fixed BD#1 right before offwidth, and #4 still fixed in crack.


There is some snow still on the route. The crack on the "slab with a crack" is filled with snow, although I suspect after the temps this week, it will be gone shortly. A few places required us to step on or across snow on route. The last pitch (of simulclimbing) has some snow you have to step through.


Sherpa glacier is still covered in snow and probably will be for a little while. crevasses are opening up - we crossed one small one near the top, 2 more (one big) a bit lower down. As always, keep an eye over your shoulder for rockfall. There were some very large boulders that came down while we were on the glacier.


Apparently there was a goat convention around our tent. As soon as we pitched, until we packed up the next night, at least 4, and up to 8? were around. Little to no fear of humans. The usual recommendations re safety. There's also a baby that would not fcuking shut up all night long, bleating at 30 second intervals. I guess they move to the core enchantments later in the season? :D


Approach Notes:

we followed a climbers path to cairns and then lost them though the boulder field up on the slope. on the way out we found then lost, then found (repeatedly) the trail that goes along mountaineers creek. ultimately we bushwacked out. I'd love to know where that trail starts.

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