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[TR] Little South Face of Gimli - new route: Sailor Jerry - 5.10d - III 6/16/2013


nutpick

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Trip: Little South Face of Gimli - new route: Sailor Jerry - 5.10d - III

 

Date: 6/16/2013

 

Trip Report:

Just sending out a new route announcement for a route that JT and I were able to add to Gimli this past father's day. We were lucky that we had perfect weather and a long day to put this route up. We've included a 3 page document that shows the route, describes it pitch by pitch, and indicates the approach/descent.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2dbn99j180ss7ik/Sailor%20Jerry%20package.pdf'>https://www.dropbox.com/s/2dbn99j180ss7ik/Sailor%20Jerry%20package.pdf

 

This route is the first free route up the "little south face" of Gimli, that currently has one other route on it (see topo for details). We were happily surprised to have this route go, since the entire time we thought we might get shut down by the stepped roof at the top of the corner system we were following.

 

One special note relates to the objective hazard associated with this route. The start of this route is exposed to cornice and rockfall hazard, so either start the route when it is very well frozen, or wait until the couloir melts out. We witnessed the cornice failing in the heat of the day, and it caused a major avalanche with some rocks. The good thing is that once you're about 10 ft off the ground, you're out of the way of danger.

 

We hope that people repeat this not too difficult route, as we'd like some confirmation of the grade. Note that the crux section is short, and very well protected with shiny new bolts;)

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/969197_174605246048325_1929741184_n.jpg[/img]

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/946485_174605222714994_705858636_n.jpg[/img]

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/P1050457_Large_.JPG[/img]

Some select pix:

http://db.tt/Kx7sNdkL

 

Approach Notes:

download a topo with approach and gear notes here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2dbn99j180ss7ik/Sailor%20Jerry%20package.pdf

Edited by nutpick
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