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[TR] Spain: La Pedrasa, Monserrat, Mallorca - Many 5/12/2013


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Trip: Spain: La Pedrasa, Monserrat, Mallorca - Many

 

Date: 5/12/2013

 

Trip Report:

If you ever get the chance, go. Leave the trad gear at home. Spaniards don't seem to mind bolts everywhere. I joined my daughter Carolyn, mostly as her belay slave, since she leads 6a or 6b and I don't.

1st week, Mallorca. Staying in Soller, we sampled the big crag of Sa Gubia. hundreds of limestone bolted routes of up to 8 pitches. Steep, wonderful, in a beautiful canyon. The highlight was Carolyn's send of 6a Tierra al reves. "outrageous route at the grade" per the guidebook. No pics of Carolyn on this one (our camera card was left at Monserrat by mistake) but here is another. The outdoor stalagtite was very cool.

 

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We canyoneered the classic Torrent de Paise too. An all day excursion in a magical place, followed by a dip in the sea.IMG_06132.JPG

 

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Another highlight to wet your interest is 100m away from a 4 star restaraunt, with the sun setting over the ocean to admire from the chains. "El Mar de Amor", 6a, Porto de Soller.

 

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A few days later, after enjoying Barcelona, one of the world's great cities, we tackled the stiff (by Spanish standards) approches at Montserrat, perhaps the birthplace of sport climbing.

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We enjoyed a long moderate route on the interesting conglomerate rock, run out and a leg shaker for me.

 

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Lots more to do in the neighborhood. Note the trail and iron cross to anchor your belay.

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The long ridge on the biggest lump is a classic.

 

Back nearer to Madrid, we scrambled up a 4th class route to a peak at La Pedriza, a dead ringer for City of Rocks, but bigger in area, if not in height of the individual pinacles. Rainstorms kept us from roping up, but later Carolyn was able to return with a Spanish friend who bumped up the route difficulty quite a bit compared with hanging around with Dad. I left for two weeks walking the Camino de Santiago de Compestela, a whole other story.

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Gear Notes:

Lots of draws. A dozen or more with at least half shoulder length.

 

Approach Notes:

Trains, planes, hitchhiking, buses. The 1911 train to Soller on Mallorca is cool.

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I am glad that you enjoyed my country. A lot of diversity and different types of rock, you can find areas fully bolted or areas for full clasic climbing. If you have chance again, go to Galayos, not far from Madrid, paradise for rock climbing and very good rock quality.

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