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[TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 6/3/2013

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Trip: Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir


Date: 6/3/2013


Trip Report:

Eiji Sugi and myself, Lance Colley climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir in a day last Monday!(19 hours) WOOT WOOT! Awesome route! There were some tracks on the route so I've been expecting a TR already but apparently its up to me!


Anyway here are some pictures mostly for beta in case somebody out there is making plans for the coming weekend. The SGC was in awesome condition! The summit rock pitches had enough snow to make things interesting but nothing extreme. The North Ridge still has snow on it but I'm thinking that will be snow free fairly soon! For the whole story and more pictures here's a link to my blog http://upwardescape.blogspot.com/


Okay now for pictures. Sadly I forgot a real camera so these are with a camera phone but they aren't to bad!


Mt. Stuart



Base of the North Ridge



Ice cliff glacier(it looked like the exit couloir still had a big cornice above it)



Stuart glacier Couloir



Conditions above the notch



A look down to Ingalls Lake (snowy and frozen)bottom left hand corner




Gear Notes:

2 stubby screws

5 cams to a #2 C4

6 stoppers

5 slings

2 double slings



Approach Notes:

Mountaineers Creek

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Nice work getting it done as a day climb!


I climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier this past Sunday (Sorry - no time for a TR) and can update on conditions of the Sherpa.


Full of snow and the schrund crossing is mostly filled in.



We crossed on skiers far left as we descended the Sherpa. (RH side of photo)


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