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skoolsukz

[TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 6/3/2013

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Trip: Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir

 

Date: 6/3/2013

 

Trip Report:

Eiji Sugi and myself, Lance Colley climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir in a day last Monday!(19 hours) WOOT WOOT! Awesome route! There were some tracks on the route so I've been expecting a TR already but apparently its up to me!

 

Anyway here are some pictures mostly for beta in case somebody out there is making plans for the coming weekend. The SGC was in awesome condition! The summit rock pitches had enough snow to make things interesting but nothing extreme. The North Ridge still has snow on it but I'm thinking that will be snow free fairly soon! For the whole story and more pictures here's a link to my blog http://upwardescape.blogspot.com/

 

Okay now for pictures. Sadly I forgot a real camera so these are with a camera phone but they aren't to bad!

 

Mt. Stuart

0527131559.jpg

 

Base of the North Ridge

0527131650b.jpg

 

Ice cliff glacier(it looked like the exit couloir still had a big cornice above it)

0527131649.jpg

 

Stuart glacier Couloir

0527131851.jpg0527131910.jpg

 

Conditions above the notch

0527132022.jpg0603131202.jpg

 

A look down to Ingalls Lake (snowy and frozen)bottom left hand corner

 

0603131602b.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

2 stubby screws

5 cams to a #2 C4

6 stoppers

5 slings

2 double slings

Camera

 

Approach Notes:

Mountaineers Creek

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Nice work getting it done as a day climb!

 

I climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier this past Sunday (Sorry - no time for a TR) and can update on conditions of the Sherpa.

 

Full of snow and the schrund crossing is mostly filled in.

8974913599_3c7aacda77_c.jpg

 

We crossed on skiers far left as we descended the Sherpa. (RH side of photo)

8976063950_c8ffeca9da_c.jpg

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