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[TR] Colchuck Balance Rock - Leche la Vaca- 5.10 5/19/2013


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Trip: Colchuck Balance Rock - Leche la Vaca- 5.10


Date: 5/19/2013


Trip Report:

Decided to make a trip up to check out the Balanced rock for the first time with Logan. Had some difficulty finding the true starting point, using the pics posted on mountain project of the route (hopefully can get back up there soon with my DSLR to take some high res shots). Started the 5.8 pitch just slightly up and lookers right of the large tree oasis at the base. Uncertain if I was on route but made a short pitch up to the tree belay ledge below the flake on the second pitch. Logan led the second pitch through the flake and the rope became severely stuck within the flake. Double ropes would have been benifical. The flake contained tons of moss and was fairly wet. Ice drips were found all through this pitch on some crucial knobs. Some sections of the route were covered in lichen as well. In the final 4th class scramble to the top, large snow patches were encountered and some ice. Topped out only to be socked in by clouds. Tons of fun, 4th pitch totally rocked with awesome knobs and some bouldery moves.


video and pics to come


Gear Notes:

We brought too much, only need a double rack and some nuts. C3s and C4s. #4 is useful for one placement. Double ropes would help with rope drag.


Approach Notes:

No snow until a mile before Colchuck lake. Still tons of snow around the lake. Walked the circumference of the lake to Asgard pass and climbed the upper most gully, which allowed us to drop down to the right side of Colchuck Balance Rock. Snow was firm in the morning for the approach.

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