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SethKL

[TR] Rabbit Ears - Wandering Souls 5/18/2012

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Trip: Rabbit Ears - Wandering Souls

 

Date: 5/18/2012

 

Trip Report:

On the 1 yr anniversary of this climb I thought I might post a TR. Seems like there is not one for the Southern Oregon Rabbit Ears, and its a pretty special place.

 

Wandering Souls , beta here http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wandering-soul/106578124, is one of few routes that summits the West ear. Its rather wild; the 1st pitch is 180' of solid 5.10 with some 5.10+ moves midway up. Less-than-good rock quality and the wandering POLR add to the boldness. Must have been something else to bolt this on lead!

 

P5120084.JPG

 

Coming up the Hersberger rd the massive volcanic plugs that are the Ears pop into view. Pictured is the W ear which, on the Southeast side (lookers right), is Wandering Souls.

 

P5120074.JPG

 

Me at the 1st belay, 180' up and below an overhanging head wall. For the 1st pitch my belayer tied to a tree out of direct fall line of the many various size rocks I dropped. The final moves to the (nice) belay ledge are great liebacking and footwork. Save the long slings for the last few pieces of pro.

 

 

P5120078.JPG

View of the East ear and Crater Lake NP (background) from the 1st belay.

P5120081.JPG

 

 

View South from the summit( do not include Thielson and more!). The last 2 pitches are as unique as the first tho less difficulty. The roofs and the "pumpkin patch" were very fun! (read the attached route beta for their description).

 

We brought one 60m rope after scoping the possibility of rappeling/down-climbing via the South and far East side. We found an old pair of bolts there by scrambling via the summit to the East end of the ear then down a bit.

 

Gear Notes:

Half a dozen 48" slings and several 24" slings. A nut for the bolt w/o a hanger. A single rack to 2.5" (we placed very little gear). webbing for the rap.

 

Approach Notes:

Park at the turn-out/unmarked trail at the bend in Hersberger rd after heading straight towards the Ears. Follow the obvious trail the the SouthEast side and look for bolts.

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