Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
mountainXclimber

How steep is Old Chute - Hood

Recommended Posts

I climbed Mt. Hood in 2001 when the Hogsback led directly up through the Pearly Gates, now I know you should traverse to the Old Chute. My question for you who have climbed the south side before and after the Hogsback shift, how much steeper is the Old Chute compared to what the chute was before the shift? Just trying to mentally prepare myself for the climb. =)

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did the old chute in 04/2009, it was steep, but nothing a pair of crampons and an ice ax wouldn't get you up.

 

I down climbed it facing in, but my climbing partner plunge stepped it.

 

We had a rope and pickets with us, but didn't feel the need to use them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no difference between the two really, 'cept the old chute can feel more exposed b/c you're on a big broad, open slope instead of between some cool walls - maybe a bit more exposed to crap falling off the summit ridge as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Being roped may restrict you a bit I feel. You may

Need two tools or at least two ice axes to make sure you are

Placed well on the slope. My friend did it last month and he said

That it was 50 degree. The thing that would worry me is the traverse

from the chute to the true summit. He said it was 4 feet. With wind it would be sketchy but make sure to place and hold your feet when you cross over

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its not too steep, I skied from the summit ridge in early March. The traverse is fairly narrow, but your moutaineering, you should be more than fine. My dog would have no issue summiting (at least in the conditions I saw in March).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
now I know you should traverse to the Old Chute. My question for you who have climbed the south side before and after the Hogsback shift,

 

been a long time since I was last on hood, but are you saying that the hogsback feature has shifted to a nmew location and now it points to another chute?

 

Or is the pearly gates not doable anymore?

 

Crazy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really?

 

Every time I have been up Hood in the last 10 years the Hogsback has been in the same spot. I just thought that the Old Chute was easier way to go in the last couple of years, probably due to the glacier thinning above the 'schrund, making the entrance to the pearly gates a bit trickier than it was decades ago. To get to the old chute you traverse west off the line of the hogsback, or at least that is the way it was last time I was up there about a year ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Really?

 

Every time I have been up Hood in the last 10 years the Hogsback has been in the same spot. I just thought that the Old Chute was easier way to go in the last couple of years, probably due to the glacier thinning above the 'schrund, making the entrance to the pearly gates a bit trickier than it was decades ago. To get to the old chute you traverse west off the line of the hogsback, or at least that is the way it was last time I was up there about a year ago.

 

Google some images of the Hogsback and when you find some older ones, before mid 2000, you'll see how the line took you straight up to the summit.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When we descended the old chute last year it didn't seem like it was 50 deg. We walked down it unroped ok. I've never been great at grades and such but it seemed like it was 35 - 40 deg. Same as the Pearly Gates like Ivan said.

 

The sketchiest part of it all was the people surrounding us and an extremely slow group below that held everyone up and kept the rest of us bunched up and waiting an awfully long time... There was one person, obviously gripped, trying some sort of backward belly roll feet first thing that scared the shit out of us watching...

 

I hope someone slaps me hard if I ever suggest a S Side descent on Hood again...

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Its not too steep, I skied from the summit ridge in early March. The traverse is fairly narrow, but your moutaineering, you should be more than fine. My dog would have no issue summiting (at least in the conditions I saw in March).

 

What's the usual plan for skiing from the summit in terms of avoiding the climbers and getting reasonably pleasant snow conditions on the way down? I'm thinking of heading up on Memorial day.

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey I'm tryna go down there memorial weekend too. I'm tryna find a partner to go with. Maybe Friday night and Saturday summit? Lemme know if your interested.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey I'm tryna go down there memorial weekend too. I'm tryna find a partner to go with. Maybe Friday night and Saturday summit? Lemme know if your interested.

 

Hi! I saw your post for partners earlier, but sorry I can only go on Mem day Monday, and we have a potential group of skiers already. Best of luck finding a partner!

 

And sorry to hijack this thread, I will ask my question in the Oregon Cascades forum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×