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John Frieh

[TR] Mt Wake (Ruth Gorge) - "The Cook Inlet" 4/27/2013

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Trip: Mt Wake (Ruth Gorge) - "The Cook Inlet"

 

Date: 4/27/2013

 

Summary: Second Ascent of "The Cook Inlet" on Mount Wake on April 27 2012. John Frieh and Daniel Harro.

 

Details: On April 26 around 11 am, Daniel Harro and I, John Frieh (both Portland, OR), flew from Talkeetna to the Ruth Glacier below Mt. Dickey in the Ruth Gorge. We set up camp and spent roughly four hours skiing around the gorge scoping possible lines. Though we didn't get a good look at it we decided to roll the dice on a line I saw last October when I made the first ascent of "The Cook Inlet" on Mt Wake. We left camp around 4 am on April 28 and started climbing up in between Wake and Johnson around 6 am. Unfortunately the line I had my hopes on was not in so after a discussion of our options we opted to repeat The Cook Inlet.

 

I forget the exact times (perhaps Daniel recalls?) but I want to say it was a 20 hour day camp to camp. The route was in similar conditions to last October but as it had less snow on it so the mixed climbing and glacier travel was a little more involved and heads up. All in all a fine day out with my good friend Mr Harro.

 

On the morning on the 28rd Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi picked us up and brought us back to Talkeetna to make for a brief 48 or so hours in the range and 72 hours Portland to Portland. Long live the three day weekend!

 

Though we have many more photos and video we are looking forward to using these to tell the story of our trips to Alaska this spring as part of the Copp Dash Inspire Award. Big thanks to Matt and David of the Alta Group, Jared and Clubsport, Colin B for the loaner skis, and all the great people at Mountain Gear!

 

Racking up

DSC03294.jpeg

 

Fine mixed climbing low on The Cook Inlet

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Nice views higher on the route

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Near the summit

DSC03394.jpeg

 

Portland on top!

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Gear Notes:

As ugly as some people contend it is the Petzl Sirocco is the most comfortable helmet I have ever owned. I love it.

 

Approach Notes:

Smash and Grab style climbing in the Alaska Range would not be possible without the expertise and service that Paul Roderick and Talkeetna Air Taxi provides. The best of the best. Fly TAT!

 

The MAN: Paul Roderick

DSC00563edit.jpg

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Sweet! How do you like that new Sirocco?

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Sweet! How do you like that new Sirocco?

 

Hands down the most comfortable helmet I've ever owned. Absolutely love it.

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D'Oh! I should have read the gear notes. I have one on backorder and am really looking forward to it.

 

Anyway, strong, fast work was usual Mr. Frieh! I have to think that those smash and grab ascents must seem like a dream when you are back at your office on a Monday morning...very cool.

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Nice work as usual John and party- I'm here now (in Talkeetna) waiting for a flight to the Ruth. Will hope to post something in a week or two if success is in our cards.

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Nice work as usual John and party- I'm here now (in Talkeetna) waiting for a flight to the Ruth. Will hope to post something in a week or two if success is in our cards.

 

Awesome; I'd love to see some more AK TRs. If you see Eric (he is likely coming out) tell him hi.

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Nice meeting you John. Way to tear it up in just a few days!

 

Always great to meet other cc.comers! Hope you guys had a great trip! Cheers

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Great stuff John!

72 hours Portland to Portland. Long live the three day weekend!

that's always the most inspiring thing for me.

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Good friend of mine who was in the Ruth the same time Daniel and I were just got out and sent me these two photos.

 

Sunday morning

Frieh_Harro_Ruth_2013_edit.jpg

 

Home in the Range

Frieh_Harro_Tent_Ruth_2013_edit.jpg

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