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gusthedog

[TR] Snow Creek Wall - Outer Space - Cam Left Behind 4/27/2013

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Trip: Snow Creek Wall - Outer Space - Cam Left Behind

 

Date: 4/27/2013

 

Trip Report:

Climbed Outer Space with a new partner who couldn't get my red metolius #4 fat cam outta the crux pitch (need those fat cams on granite . . .) She feels bad about it and asked that I post in hope it gets returned. We were the last party up the route Saturday. If ya got it and want to meet in Seattle I'll trade you good karma and a six pack of your favorite beer.

 

Route was as expected. I pulled 7 ticks off my clothes throughout the day. Little monsters.

 

Gear Notes:

Put it in when you feel it would be prudent.

 

Approach Notes:

Go up the trail. Then up the route.

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A couple friends climbed it yesterday. Sounds like there is a red C4 welded on that pitch, now. Your piece wasn't there, [un]fortunately.

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Don't feel bad, the headwall crack is a museum of hardware. Everything from bongs, hexes, and old nuts to cams. 50 years from now your donation will viewed with awe.

 

Hope you get it back though.

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A couple friends climbed it yesterday. Sounds like there is a red C4 welded on that pitch, now. Your piece wasn't there, [un]fortunately.

 

That C4 will come out easily if someone takes a little can of Wd-40 up there. There's plenty of cam space left to extract it. As for other pieces, there's only a mangled 1st gen. .75 camalot fixed in the headwall crack these days. Not too bad for the traffic O/S gets.

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All dry - and looks like my cam may have taken a ride on another rack. God speed little fella. May you be happy in your new home. But please remember you're always welcome back.

Edited by gusthedog

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That C4 will come out easily if someone takes a little can of Wd-40 up there.

 

Just what I need on that traversing around and hangin for dear life, some residue wd40.

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That C4 will come out easily if someone takes a little can of Wd-40 up there.

 

Just what I need on that traversing around and hangin for dear life, some residue wd40.

 

I'll put some on the key footholds just for you Gene!

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Sound like your partner owes you a bj.

 

After five minutes of laughing I agree but it was probably going to happen anyway.

 

By the time you drive to a climb in a car that probably cost $2k if you are cheap or $15K if you are sort of rich and I would continue but those folks don't climb. And have spent at least $500 for a rack and $200 for a rope.

 

Climbing costs money. Allways has and allways will.

 

Last thought. Let her lead. I am a believer in gender equality. Then you are responsible for extraction and perhaps you have to do the bj (pun intended)

Edited by matt_warfield

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In my experience, a stuck cam has more to do with the leader and a shitty placement than the other way around.

Edited by shapp

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In my experience, a stuck cam has more to do with an inexperienced leader and a shitty placement than the other way around.

 

^^+1

 

That or a gripped leader as I frequently am.

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In my experience, a stuck cam has more to do with an inexperienced leader and a shitty placement than the other way around.

 

 

shit happens....

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