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[TR] Castle Crags - Cosmic Wall 4/22/2013


bedellympian

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Trip: Castle Crags - Cosmic Wall

 

Date: 4/22/2013

 

Trip Report:

I stopped at Castle Crags, just of I-5 in NorCal, and climbed Cosmic Wall (5.6, 800ft) which everyone raves about. It was fun, really easy. The hardest part is getting over to one of the belay ledges but since I wasn't belaying that wasn't a problem. Great position, I highly recommend the arete variation on the last pitch. The crux was definitely route finding in the manzanita bushes below.

 

The summit log is totally full and also wet (plastic container needs replacing or something) so I was denied my single sentence of written summit glory. I also scrambled up Castle Dome on the way down (its N or E face looks like it has awesome potential). Also, the state park rangers have a single copy of a beat-up old climbing guide published in '91 at visitor center/gate house (only open on weekends right now).

 

Some photos on my blog... Mountain Mischief

 

Gear Notes:

70m rope for the rap (you only need a 60 and both stations are well bolted), if you were using pro: lots of small nuts and slings

 

Approach Notes:

Castle Dome/crags trail from Vista Parking Lot (2.7 miles, 2200 ft), manzanita bushwhack on "climbers trail" to base, practically no snow or water, already really dry up there.

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