Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
rizzle

crampon question

Recommended Posts

I was browsing around for a pair of used crampons and found these

http://nh.craigslist.org/spo/3764425292.html

I have boots with a rear welt and was wondering if it is a significant difference between universal and semi-auto crampons as far as performance goes. Maybe someone has a pair they are wanting to get rid of too, hahah.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It depends, those will probably be fine for glacier walking and general mountaineering, probably not ideal for ice climbing though. I know a guy who ice climbs in those, but I wouldn't. I've heard it said that strapons work, but there not quite as good as the real thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

define your needs for crampons. these may be good or bad depending. If your goal is to walk on glaciers with approach shoes, then these are great. As Alan said above, not so good for water ice. maybe doable for alpine ice with good boots on.

 

Countdown till the statement that all the hard routes back in the day were done in these style of crampons. Even the cover of the 3rd edition (maybe 2nd ed) of waterfall ice in canadian rockies had the author climbing wi4 in plastic boots, old CM tools and a pair of strap on crampons.

Edited by genepires

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Several years ago I had a pair of those and found that they are finicky to adjust (too tight restricts circulation, too loose they fall off)and as a result, made me very slow in transition. I sold them after a couple of climbs.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I will likely start with the glacier walking and see where life takes me. Probably going to have to pass for now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used a similar pair when I started. The old style traps are a real pain to put on or off, especially on steep terrain or blizzard conditions. After trying many styles over the years, I have finally settled on the Black Diamond Contact Strap, which is very light, easily adjustable without tools, quick to put on, and durable enough as it is made of stainless steel. I just check on ebay, 'new' only $70. These are the best for all-round use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×