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Isobel

Toproping at Leavenworth

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A friend new to climbing and I will be in Leavenworth May 05/06. With only one outdoor session under his belt I am not excited about being lead belayed. Are there routes to 5.8 where I can set topropes? Low grades are best or we will be back in a Bavarian bar with pumped arms before lunch! We don't know the area at all so any information is greatly appreciated. Best guidebook for beginner routes? If anyone would like to join us I can regale you with stories of failed summit bids in distant lands and he of marathon podium finishes in obscure places!

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About 7 miles up icicle creek road is a prominent roadside outcrop called Bruce's Boulder with some good top-rope slab routes. Then cross the street to get to Barney's Rubble for some decent cracks and face climbs. Approach times range from 15 to 30 seconds, depending on how fast you walk.

 

Once you have had your fill of these, drive up the road further to 8-mile rock (about a quarter mile past the entrance to 8-mile campground). Here you can top-rope 4 polished routes, including the once great Classic Crack. Everything described is 5.9 or under and has seen quite a bit of traffic.

 

Another option is to check out Playground Point for an area that has seen far fewer ascents over the past 60 years.

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Many thanks. That sounds like it will keep us busy for two days and one half will be very happy with the 15 second approach! Leavenworth Mountain Sports sounds like the kind of place I like hanging out too.

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Clamshell Cave also fits the bill. 8ish routes, most routes are 5.9 and under, all are easy to set up trs on. don't expect solitude there on a weekend....

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