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[TR] Mt. Deception + peak 7638' - east face, ne chute + east face 4/1/2013

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Trip: Mt. Deception + peak 7638' - east face, ne chute + east face


Date: 3/31-4/2/2013


Trip Report:

I left Sunday afternoon with plans to explore Royal Basin, stocked with several days worth of food an gas, a guitar, and plenty of stoke.


I got there as the day was fading, and eyed a potential line on the East face of Mt. Deception. Got started around dawn and was happy to find good consolidated spring conditions low down, the snow got deeper with elevation. I was tempted to ski linked turns off the summit, but sluff management was necessary. The crux came in a gully low on the face. I first tried to ski the way I had climbed, but found it too awkward and icy so I climbed back up a little and went skiers left over a ice bulge, it was steeper but sun kissed unlike the way I had climbed.


I skied down to the floor of the basin and was so stoked I decided to climb and ski the NE chute. Conditions were a little crusty in spots but not bad, it is a beautiful line and was very fun to ski.


That night was cold and windy and I didn't get much sleep. In the morning I half dozed in my sun warmed sleeping bag for a while enjoying the sounds of the wind through the trees. My plan was to slog out that day. On the way out I saw an alluring east face and decided to go for it. It was awesome, a little shorter and steeper than the east face route I skied on Deception.


On my drive in, I came across a stranded couple walking down the road, they had listened to their radio too long roadside camping and killed their battery. I didn't have jumper cables but I obliged to letting them swap out my truck battery for a few minutes.


IMG_0010 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr


Mt. Deception


east face by danhelmstadter, on Flickr



IMG_0031 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr



IMG_0046 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr


crux, icy neve in the shade.


IMG_0049 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr



IMG_0039 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr


East face of Needles peak 7638' on left


IMG_0081 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr



needles by danhelmstadter, on Flickr


View south to Deception


IMG_0097 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr



IMG_0104 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr


7638' from lower down


IMG_0114 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr






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I keep meaning to get up in there to ski! Looks like fun! And Lowell is right, Martin peak is the last peak of the Needles, just before Deception.

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Nice trip! I skied Deception last year and the East Face looked possible with more snow, and Martin looked like fun as well!

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Anyone know what Dan's up to these days? Really enjoyed seeing his stoke filled TRs and photos.

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I'd bump this too.. Dan probably would downplay but just within the last week I was going over his summit post climb/ski log and marveling. Tell me this guy was sponsored by someone..please

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