jesselillis Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Team of 3. Planning to bring a 60m, diameter TBD. Light is good (8mm?), but so thin that prussiking out of a crevasse is agony is less good. Dry treatment probably necessary since the thing will be getting dragged across snow/ice for the length of the entire route twice? Or dry treatment doesn't matter since it will be worn off after dragging the rope up the first 2000 feet, twice? What do you recommend? Or what did you use, and as a result what did you wish you had used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 60m is fine. Depending on snow / ice coverage / this years route there is only one section where you might pitch it out on the Upper Rib - but the distance between gear / good stances is short. As for diameter, I've always been a fan of 8.5 for glacier ropes. 8mm is too thin for my comfort level when you consider all the crap you'll have to deal with in the event of a big crevasse fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBlue Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 If you use an 8mm rope, then be sure your prusiks are no bigger then 5mm. Anything bigger than 5mm on an 8mm rope won't bite. They will just slide off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montypiton Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 I'd go with the smallest HALF rope you can find -- just don't drop to a single TWIN. If all you're using prusiks for is to get out of a crevasse, go with 4mm slings -- they're only carrying bodyweight. modern (current) dry treatments may be more durable than you think - I'd spring for it if I were you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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