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kevbone

Santiam Hwy Ledges topo?

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No need for a topo, just walk to the end of the big ledge, climb up some mossy 5.8 past some newly replaced bolts to another ledge and belay. Traverse climber's right for the money pitch (obvious) which is awesome, and probably slightly sandbagged at 5.10a, then follow the ridge to the top.

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I agree, if you just follow that ledge to the starting point for the 1st pitch pretty straight forward. The only beta i'd give is the anchors for 1st pitch belay are at your feet and camo'd, they hide a bit. The money pitch is bolted and gear down low but save some gear for up high. It's a really long pitch and runners help with drag. Might as well run up The Thumb, it's right there and has anchors so you don't have to downclimb. After that it's mostly scrambling/traversing to get to the top, but more than we anticipated.

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Does anyone have beta on the sandbagged 10a money pitch? Like, how runout, and what kind of gear to save for the top? We're a party of 3 that are all coming off the couch and at least want to know what we're getting into. Thanks!

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After that it's mostly scrambling/traversing to get to the top, but more than we anticipated.

 

Matter of fact it took longer to scramble off then to climb the first three pitches. Super long day and a great adventure.

 

Thanks for all the beta.

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I agree. Great route on a great peice of rock! Basically, 2 pitches up to the thumb notch, tag the thumb, then the long scramble off to really round off the alpine experience.

 

Definitely worth doing, and a huge shout out to the folks who replaced the bolts!!!! Replaced bolts make these routes enjoyable, instead of a one time stunt that you survive, never to repeat again.

 

Who did the replacement btw, seem like I read about it in Tylers bolt replacement thread a while back.

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Bolt replacement on multipitch routes is a LOT of work. I really appreciate it!

 

Agreed. :tup:

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