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[TR] Keene Valley, NY - Chouinard's Gully 3/9/2013


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Trip: Keene Valley, NY - Chouinard's Gully

 

Date: 3/9/2013

 

Trip Report:

My climbing partner Chris and I decided to make one last trip out to the 'Daks to get on some ice as spring is quickly taking hold out here in NY. We left around 6am making the 3 hour drive out to Keene Valley, one of the great mountain towns in the high peaks region.

 

We were concerned about climbing ice considering the forecast called for 50 degree temperatures!! We chose Chouinard's Gully because it is out of the sun for most of the day. CG is one of the classic routes in the 'Daks, the FA made by its namesake in 1969, during Yvon's visit to the region. It is a very aesthetic WI3 route that is done usually in 2 or 3 pitches. Chris and I opted to to do it in 2 full 60 meter pitches.

 

Not going to lie, I was a little nervous leading this route, as it would be pushing my limits, I had only been climbing ice for 2 years, and leading for only the latter half of this season on WI2 routes. Chris provided ample motivation and didn't give me any reasons to bail. :tup:

 

We crossed Chapel pond and reached the base of the route around 9:15 to discover we already behind 2 parties. The party ahead of us was also celebrating the last day out of the season and decided to make it costume ice climbing day out. One girl was wearing a superman shirt and cape while her partner was wearing a pink tutu. It was pretty awesome, we chatted at the base and at the first belay. Great meeting you guys!

 

P1 ascends easy ice/ snow to a 10-15 meter vertical ice step. This pitch went smoothly and before I knew it I was at the first belay, a set of trees on climbers left. Chris followed and we ended up spending some time at the first belay while the ladies led P2 and rapped off.

 

P2 ascends a short snow gully and reaches a section of 60 degree ice leading to another 15 meter vertical stop. Chris followed and before we knew it we were getting ready to rap off.

 

The descent is straight forward, we made 2 rappels with 2 60m half ropes. I was STOKED to have led my first WI3 route. Definitely a good way to closeout the 2012-2013 ice season out here in NY. I know I know, not too hard for all you real alpinists out here, but I was excited to be improving.

 

Here are some photos:

Crossing Chapel Pond

CP_Crossing.jpg

 

CG route overlay

CG_Overlay.jpg

 

View from the top of P1

View_from_top_of_P1.jpg

 

Looking up at P2, Chris ready to belay

Chris_Belay_2.jpg

 

Me waiting for the ladies to rap

Waiting_on_P2.jpg

 

Chris following P2

Chris_following_P2.jpg

 

Topped out

CG_Topout.jpg

 

Hope you enjoy

 

Gear Notes:

I recommend 2 ropes for the rappels, twins, half ropes, or a single and a tag would all work fine. Screws and slings to your hearts content

 

Approach Notes:

Cross Chapel Pond, make sure it is frozen!

Edited by Dave7
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