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Hyalite Conditions


Lambone

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Seeing as we were the "strait edge climbing team" (aka the 3:45 am alarm team), we only made it to the bar one of the two nights. We ended up at the pub which has good food as well. However, there aren't open container laws to hamper the post-climb celebration! bigdrink.gif

 

I've also put some pictures up on my site, if you need more!

btw, cleopatras needle was a slush-cicle. The lower pitch wasn't even touching down... But had Jens been there, it wouldn't have mattered much. hahaha.gif

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3:45!!! Shit, know wonder you guys didn't see anyone out there!

 

Yeah the lower pitch rarely touches down, and it's often drippin cause it gets that mid-day sun, sorta like a normal day in Lilooet. But its worth getting soaked for that route!

 

Glad you guys had fun! fruit.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hyalite is in pretty good shape. Most of the standard climbs are in fat. There is no snow up there, the driest I've ever seen it for this time of year. As a result, many freeze thaw dependent climbs are non-existant, like Mummy 4, and other sick/scary testpieces.

 

Unfortunately, due to the easy access and lack of skiing, Hyalite is also quite crowded. We got skunked going to the Dribbles two days in a row. If you have your heart set on being the first ones to a route, better set your alarm for 3:45 like the Cascadeclimber crew. Most of the moderate classics are heavily picked out...

 

Still we had a great trip, hanging with old friends and trying to pretend that we're in shape!

 

 

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thanks,

let's see, leave after work on friday at 3pm, get there by what - 1am? Sleep in the car, climb sat and sun, leave say around 4 or 5 on Sunday, be back here about 3am on Monday, couple o' hours sleep and back to work. Sounds doable right?

-john

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so that's going to be 21 hours of driving for what - maybe 15, 20 pitches if we're lucky.

 

Maybe someone should invent a new rating system that's a ratio of driving time to feet of elevation gained or something. Imagine the possibilities.

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We left Seattle at 3pm and hit the Hyalite parking lot at 3am. Took 12hrs on the way home too. In good conditions. But we had 5 days to climb so it was totaly worth it.

 

You'd be kickin ass if you could get 20 pitches in during two days. On a weekend that would be nearly impossible even if you were superman, due to the crowds. Or did you mean 20 laps?

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If the 700 mile drive sounds appealing the road to the parking lot was drivable in a taurus, and the warm weather (in the 30's during the day) has fattened up the ice - compared to a couple of weeks ago according to the locals.

 

climbing smile.gifsmile.gifsmile.gifbigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

 

driving mad.gifmad.gifmad.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gif

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What an awesome place that is (reminding me NH) also most climbs were in. any way after admirable drive by john we got there (I don’t drive…true New Yorker woss) and did some great climbing (I just find the approach to be the crux of the climb…again NY woss) and got John to do some mix climbing on TR it seems that he liked it…(more to come??)

So, I did had my first ice climbing for the season and it was great

Thanx John!!!

bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifsmirk.gifsmirk.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

You should go. There definately will be ice to climb in Feb. Access may be a problem into Hyalite if it snows much between now and then, but in the past few years the road has been drivable for most of the season. If Hyalite is shut down to cars, Pine Creek and Cooke City are both accessible without much trouble. Cody isn't much farther than Bozeman 3.5 hrs and has the best Ice in the lower 48 with no road issues. Have fun!

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