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ivan

red rock ideas

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my first trip to vegas for the delights of sandstone spring break

 

i got 7 days, and a partner who whines once we hit 5.9

 

i have no guidebook currently

 

the solar slab routes look great, and figure 2 days spent there to be a good deal

 

what else? heard it's the spring rendezvous, so the less apt to be crowded the better - the more multipitch the better, and adventure climbing always a plus

 

most importantly, for a man leaving the enlightened genius of post i-502 washington state, where's a man to score his climbing medicine, fresh off the plane? :)

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frogland in black velvet is a cool outing at 5.8. Epinephrine is badass, all the 5.9 is down low and once you hit the black tower it easy street. check out resolution arete on mt. wilson, it is certainly long and adventurous. it might not be a good fit for you and your partner now but definitely your kinda route. you might wanna plant that seed for a future trip. have fun mister :)

Edited by pink

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Dude,

 

As far as medicine, its Vegas! The debauchery is off the charts. Anybody with your skill set should be able to wander about downtown or on the Strip for quick provisions. :grlaf: And many Red Rocks trips include a night in town for the buffets and experiences and a shower. Rates are low with the proper choice.

Edited by matt_warfield

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crimson chrysalis & dark shadows are both classic (crowded) .8's. community pillar was an uncrowded classic .8...very memorable. Lotta balls & dark magic next door to each other were good, short .8's. on the solar slab, thought that sunflower was much better than sundog - both friendly .9's

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Good suggestions but also check Dark Shadows (5.8), Prince of Darkness and/or Dream of Wild Turkeys are must do, as well as some of the next door routes - Fiddler, Sour Mash, etc, Black Orpheous, to name a few.. POD gets a lot of crap cause it's way over bolted (22ish quick draws on 1 pitch) but it is excellent face climbing for about 6 pitches. I really like one of the old slab routes at the first pullout - Ultraman, makes for a fun warm up if you don't plan on headed back in the canyons and I doubt it gets much attention anymore. Johny Vegas & Solar Slab are great if it is cold. I've got a couple guide books if you want to borrow them. I don't have the fancy new one though.

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is camping in the park itself allowed? make any sense to just camp in an area w/ abuncha options w/ a sleepign bag and a big old bottle?

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camping is not permitted in Red Rock, with an exception for bivy/overnight permits that must be approved/obtained at the entrance office. they're pretty strict about this and tow cars that don't have an overnight permit.

 

Also, Tunnel Vision isn't as popular as other 5.7s and has some really classic climbing.

Edited by rocky_joe

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All of the routes suggested (save for the ones on solar slab wall) will be in the shade. Anything in the Black Velvet or Dark Shadows area will be full shade all day. Depending on the weather, this will either be appreciated or cursed. Tunnel Vision is a route I usually chose to do in the middle of early fall/late spring heat, same with Frogland, Dark Shadows, Epinephrine, Dream of Wild Turkeys, etc.

 

Check out Rainbow Buttress, 5.8+. Only 8 pitches but a long walk, which should keep the crowds down. Also a super long and involved decent if you walk it off completely, otherwise do Sunspot Ridge first to figure out the Black Orpheus descent, and then do the chicken lips descent off of Rainbow Buttress, which connects into the Black Orpheus descent. Also Sunspot Ridge that I suggested shouldn't be crowded, I doubt it gets climbed more than 10 times a year.

 

Crimson Chrysalis is also in the shade, and will be nuts crowded. Nearby is Ginger Cracks and while it goes a grade harder 5.9, it is a much more fun climb, with less bolts, and less people, will get a little bit of sun and with a more interesting descent that isn't directly back down the route. You'll rappel Power Failure, which goes at .10c, and you can set up a TR on the first or second pitch for some more fun as you rap if you're interested.

 

I'll keep thinking.

 

Oh - Birdland is a super popular 5.7+ish route that gets full sun. Right next to it is Rawlpindi, which can be climbing to The Big Horn. The Big Horn is an awesome crack, and everyone on Birdland will look at you and think you're rad for climbing a different route that is super cool. You'll be happy that you're the only one on that route, and enjoying a fun crack.

 

As with all these routes, read the comments on the Mountain Project to get up to date anchor/descent information.

Edited by yasso1am

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buy the handren guide. don't dick around with any of the other guides out there.

 

 

a guidebook would cut into ivans wine fund :brew: . just get on mountain project ivan and pic some stuff off there. adam winslow will be down there, u should get in touch with him. i'm sure you could peek at his guide if ur low on funds :)

 

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a guidebook would cut into ivans wine fund :brew: .

that ain't no shit, neither - gotta get me a paper route or sumthang... :)

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Do Olive Oil and bring a 70 meter and full rack since you can link pitches and its all trad including belays so having a few extra cams won't hurt nothing. Plus its a walkoff. Get er done.

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more ideas...jubilant song .8 on windy peak is a nice climb with a slight backcrountry feel. If you're careful with route finding you can get to the TH in a sedan...second the bighorn idea - short climb, short approach but 1 really fun pitch. armatron is a soft .9 & pretty unique climbing & black dagger next door is a classic .7

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like all the ideas - keep'em comign if'n you have others - design me a full day, preferably not a freezing cold one, it being spring break afterall :)

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One thing to note is that the RR grades are generally pretty soft in comparison with local areas, so being comfortable on 5.9 around here would probably get you into the low to mid 10s there without too much trouble.

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like all the ideas - keep'em comign if'n you have others - design me a full day, preferably not a freezing cold one, it being spring break afterall :)
The weather can go either way that time of year. Not likely to be very hot but it can be cold and windy, especially on the Black Velvet Wall and other shaded areas...

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armatron (often w/the Myster Z start)

Olive Oil

Ginger Cracks (w/top rope of Power Failure on rappel)

Purblind Pillar

Cookie Monster

Y2K (5.8 w/one .10a move)

Buelah's Book to upper Solar Slab route of your choice

 

*and for the Rendezvous, it's in April and will only affect certain crags, but nothing in the canyons.

 

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The top of the the Brownstone wall is an amazing place. Its true that its a fairly big hike in but worth it once you're up there. The Black Dagger was a very nice route and the descent thru the gunsight very cool. It should be sunny early in the day and go mostly into the shade after a coupla pitches. I think theres a low 5th route up Cactus flower tower, I've only done the Cinnamon Hedgehog which may be a little more (but not much) than you're asking about. The approach as well as the descent were more than a little adventurous on that one. As long as you've got a fullish moon walking out of desert after dark isn't that bad...

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armatron

*and for the Rendezvous, it's in April and will only affect certain crags, but nothing in the canyons.

where should i avoid during the rendevouz? does that thign go the whole week, or just a weekend?

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The thing about Red Rocks this time of year, unless you're road side cragging, its all about the early start.

sounds like the local camping options suck though? we got access to some condo fo'free in the city of sin meanwhile :)

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Dont get too caught up with the so called "classics" Solar Slab area is CROWDED!

 

Dude its red rocks, pick any route in this book and it will be SWEEEEEEEEEET

 

http://www.rei.com/product/718548/red-rock-odyssey-classic-traditional-climbs

 

also if you are driving down, Hit me up with a PM, I got some places you might like to check out on the way down if you want to dangle the shlong in a cool hot spring in the middle of BFE and like splitter cracks (the climbing kind).

Edited by shapp

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