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KaskadskyjKozak

Chair Peak - Sat 2/9...

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We ran into people who had bailed off Chair on Saturday due to high winds and spindrift. Sunday was nice on N Face route. Funky ice and snow layers in some areas with great styrofoam neve in others.

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We ran into people who had bailed off Chair on Saturday due to high winds and spindrift. Sunday was nice on N Face route. Funky ice and snow layers in some areas with great styrofoam neve in others.

 

That may have been us. Were you the guys who bailed on N face on Sat, who kept punching through when trying to find a way across the moat?

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No we didn't attempt the route on Saturday. We were on the approach road/trail w beers on Saturday afternoon when you guys were skiing out. If that was you guys...???

 

We bivied in the parking lot, overslept until 8:30 am, did the approach on foot, and still got up and down the route in daylight. Great day out with good friends.

 

My partners have photos of us on the summit but that's about it. I don't think there were any taken on the route.

 

Edited by giza

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As of last week you could easily walk into the moat and then down to the right and just as easily *walk* out to get established on the face proper. Tool wasn't even needed.

 

Typically what is the crux of the climb, seems to be gone at the moment. I've done it a couple of times in the last few weeks and that is how I found it.

 

P1050761.JPG

 

'shrund is down and to my left. Normal entry for me is 1/2 dozen steps higher and to the left than where the picture is taken. Easy as it will ever get I suspect.

 

P1050768.JPG

 

It is pretty obvious if you look around once you are there. But you can kinda see the shrund below me in this picture and where I entered and walked out as well. Either way the route has been in great conditon with good snice in the corner and higher. Lots of opportunity to place ice gear if required.

 

P1050765.JPG Conditions on the 1st pitch recently.

 

 

My apologies for going off topic, but since I was asked:

 

"Yes, it is true, I am risking life and limb betting on not having another BD stainless failure while soloing. I check them for cracks constantly and I've pulled the bot plates so I can do that easier." I am now back climbing on Grivel G20s or G22s with my TLTs.

 

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/grivel-crampons-respect-is-due.html

 

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No we didn't attempt the route on Saturday. We were on the approach road/trail w beers on Saturday afternoon when you guys were skiing out. If that was you guys...???

 

We bivied in the parking lot, overslept until 8:30 am, did the approach on foot, and still got up and down the route in daylight. Great day out with good friends.

 

My partners have photos of us on the summit but that's about it. I don't think there were any taken on the route.

 

cool. glad you got it.

 

We were in a total white out, 30 mph gusts and tons of spindrift. so much for the weather man, eh?

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Climbing with a Lynx on a TLT are you? Lynx is a nice crampon but not my favorite on ski boots.

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Oh. Gotcha. Not good for ski boots. Haven't tried em on TLT's yet. I need more money to start an obsession with AT skiing. Too much spent on ice climbing crap.

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