KaskadskyjKozak Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Was curious how the party of 4 fared on the NE buttress yesterday (Sat), and how the route conditions were up higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giza Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 We ran into people who had bailed off Chair on Saturday due to high winds and spindrift. Sunday was nice on N Face route. Funky ice and snow layers in some areas with great styrofoam neve in others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaleHoopes Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Pictures Giza? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 We ran into people who had bailed off Chair on Saturday due to high winds and spindrift. Sunday was nice on N Face route. Funky ice and snow layers in some areas with great styrofoam neve in others. That may have been us. Were you the guys who bailed on N face on Sat, who kept punching through when trying to find a way across the moat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giza Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 (edited) No we didn't attempt the route on Saturday. We were on the approach road/trail w beers on Saturday afternoon when you guys were skiing out. If that was you guys...??? We bivied in the parking lot, overslept until 8:30 am, did the approach on foot, and still got up and down the route in daylight. Great day out with good friends. My partners have photos of us on the summit but that's about it. I don't think there were any taken on the route. Edited February 12, 2013 by giza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_hoop15 Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 How was the moat Giza? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 As of last week you could easily walk into the moat and then down to the right and just as easily *walk* out to get established on the face proper. Tool wasn't even needed. Typically what is the crux of the climb, seems to be gone at the moment. I've done it a couple of times in the last few weeks and that is how I found it. 'shrund is down and to my left. Normal entry for me is 1/2 dozen steps higher and to the left than where the picture is taken. Easy as it will ever get I suspect. It is pretty obvious if you look around once you are there. But you can kinda see the shrund below me in this picture and where I entered and walked out as well. Either way the route has been in great conditon with good snice in the corner and higher. Lots of opportunity to place ice gear if required. Conditions on the 1st pitch recently. My apologies for going off topic, but since I was asked: "Yes, it is true, I am risking life and limb betting on not having another BD stainless failure while soloing. I check them for cracks constantly and I've pulled the bot plates so I can do that easier." I am now back climbing on Grivel G20s or G22s with my TLTs. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/grivel-crampons-respect-is-due.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 No we didn't attempt the route on Saturday. We were on the approach road/trail w beers on Saturday afternoon when you guys were skiing out. If that was you guys...??? We bivied in the parking lot, overslept until 8:30 am, did the approach on foot, and still got up and down the route in daylight. Great day out with good friends. My partners have photos of us on the summit but that's about it. I don't think there were any taken on the route. cool. glad you got it. We were in a total white out, 30 mph gusts and tons of spindrift. so much for the weather man, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaleHoopes Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Dane... what??!? No Lynx? My Lynx are rockin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Climbing with a Lynx on a TLT are you? Lynx is a nice crampon but not my favorite on ski boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaleHoopes Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Oh. Gotcha. Not good for ski boots. Haven't tried em on TLT's yet. I need more money to start an obsession with AT skiing. Too much spent on ice climbing crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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