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2tenttimmy

Mecca?

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Does anyone have any info on the climbing area Mecca in central oregon? I know it is outside of warm springs and probably kinda "hush-hush". But.. What are the logistics? How many routes? or is it worth the drive from Bend? Any info would be appreciated.

Tim

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I climbed there dozens of times, but when I last went in 2011 or so it clearly hadn't seen much traffic in a while. It's got 70-100 routes i'd guess. Better be solid at 10a (Cruel Sister/Gruff/Delirium Tremens 10a) or there's not much to enjoy. But if you like stout single pitch trad it's like a parallel universe trout creek with a shorter hike, far fewer people - and none of the glory! PM me and I can share plenty more.

 

The crag is clearly visible (though just briefly) while heading south/east on hwy 26 in the horseshoe canyon facing north just before you cross the deschutes (and head under the more well-known Bill's Columns).

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Its a fun little crag and there are a couple of 5.8's and 9 here or there but agreed with Crimper that mostly 10's. There is one stellar 11.b off-finger crack. Its on the first wall you come to and is very obvious. It alone is worth the hike and drive. If you have a 4 wheel drive (or something with clearance) you can drive all the way to the end of the road. If not you will hike all of the road.

 

Good summer crag. Never gets sun.

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11b, learning to fly, everyone loves it.

 

there's no reason for 4 wheel drive. no rocks, just gravel, though steep. about a 20-25 minute walk no matter what car you have.

 

it is all shade, so it's great in spring and fall. just watch the snakes in summer!

 

there's 2 lead bolts at the crag, otherwise all trad, but with bolted anchors and all routes under 100 feet (usually 50-80, and every move is burly, very few edges let alone handholds)

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there's no reason for 4 wheel drive. no rocks, just gravel,

 

I tried driving my 97 minivan up the road. Large rocks blocked my path and I ended up breaking one of my shocks on a rock and leaked out all of the fluid. The drive home to Portland was interesting to say the least. I would say having something with clearance would be preferable.

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i guess i forgot that. don't drive over any large rocks you see, get out and move 'em! (maybe this was after a storm???)

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I think the point is if I were to get out and move all the rocks out of the way I would never have made it climbing. I would be working on the road the entire day.

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dude, there are not that many rocks. no need to scare people off an area that hardly sees climber trafffic and could use some. i have a low-riding subaru legacy and mark had a low-riding subaru forester and neither of us ever had a bit of trouble in well over a hundred visits between us. sorry you had a different experience than everybody else. anyway, this is an echo chamber between you and me, i'm not sure anyone else is even reading this, so why am i typing? ;)

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I am reading!!!! I would love directions to this place and any info on bills columns.  I think I know which ones are bills, but when I come from the Dalles to climb trout I don't go highway 2.  I could be wrong on what I am thinking.  

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