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Vernman23

first ascent [TR] Entiat, WA - FA Frigus Manus WI5+ 60M 1/22/2013

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Trip: Entiat, WA - FA Frigus Manus WI5+ 60M

 

Date: 1/22/2013

 

Trip Report:

Wayne Wallace and I spent two days up the Entiat this weekend. Friday we climbed What do Aredenvoirs Eat? and Tyee Falls. We scoped some new lines at about the 20.5 mile marker I believe and headed up to them Monday morning. Wayne took a crack at a sketchy looking mixed line but there is not natural pro on worse than shitty rock. He wise-fully made the choice to bail.

 

We moved over to the left and climbed what we believe to be a FA which we called Frigus Manus. This named seemed fitting after my hands got so cold I had to have Wayne send up my thicker gloves. We rated it WI 5+. It was a full 60M to the belay.

 

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It is worth doing and should be in for awhile! Things up the Entiat are looking really good and should be in this weekend. Seems like the only place around with really good ice. Park right past Tyee Falls ranch at the first little pull out on the left hand side of the road and find the boot pack over the bank. River is frozen well enough.

 

Sorry no time to write an in-depth narrative of the climb like for Goat's Beard. Too busy right now with other things.

 

Approach Notes:

Snowshoes needed. Walk up hill. We had horrible snow conditions took about 1.5-2 hours.

Edited by Vernman23

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nice work up there!

there seems to be so much untapped climbing in that valley be it ice, rock, or bouldering. too bad its so far away from Seattle.

 

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Wow, that's one nice looking line! Congrats, great work, guys!

 

Are there any access problems? Thanks!

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Wow, that's one nice looking line! Congrats, great work, guys!

 

Are there any access problems? Thanks!

 

Not really. We found a way to stay pretty far away from all houses. It is totally possible to do Tyee and Frigus Manus in a day (day light day). Would be a fun day. I would drive from Seattle for it.

 

Just go past Tyee Falls Ranch and park in the small pullout on the left (west) side of the road. There is a high snow bank look over that down into the trees and you should see a really good boot pack. If we get a bunch of snow there could be some AVI concerns on an approach to Frigus Manus. I think you should be fine though...

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