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[TR] Disillusion Peak (attempt) via Centre Creek FSR - Northwest ridge 1/12/2013


maw

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Trip: Disillusion Peak (attempt) via Centre Creek FSR - Northwest ridge

 

Date: 1/12/2013

 

Trip Report:

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Originally planning an attempt on Mt Edgar via Paleface creek, two friends and I were turned around early on Chilliwack Lake FSR due to treefall. Yes, someone dumped their Christmas tree in front of the treefall.

 

Our backup plan was to explore Centre Creek, specifically the basin below Delusion & Disillusion Peaks. The gate protecting Centre Creek was left open, I am not sure if it's still being locked or not; we didn't have any issues. The driveable road ended right when the FSR turns into the valley proper. Snow conditions prevented driving any further. Even if one managed to 4x4 up the road there is serious tree fall blocking the road before the first bridge. Bring a chainsaw and lots of fuel if you're going to clear up that mess. :)

 

 

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Other than the treefall before the first bridge, recent logging has cleaned up the first (~2km) section of the road. Then, the road degenerates into an alder maze.

 

 

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We found the walking up Centre Creek was pretty fast. The road gains little elevation and other than the alder it's essentially straight.

 

Finding the branch road just before the second bridge, we began winding our way up with excellent views of Rexford, Nesakwatch Spires, Disillusion, Williams, Goat, MacDonald and Lindeman. The road hike is long, but the gentle grade made it generally easy going.

 

 

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As we gained elevation the snow became more and more powdery. Breaking trail in ~1-2ft of powder was tiring and our pace slowed. After four hours of logging road climbing we arrived at the final switchback. We sighted a decent approach to the ridge proper. Staying near the boulder field we cut a line up through the trees until we found a suitable site for camping.

 

 

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The night was pretty cold with temperatures dropping to -15c.

 

We woke up around 06:00 and made some coffee while we contemplated leaving our sleeping bags. We procrastinated long enough for the sun to rise. Leaving camp around 07:15 we made relatively quick progress to gain the ridge. We were rewarded with magnificant views of Slesse, Shuksan, Robbie Reid and pretty much every other mountain with a line of sight from the ridge.

 

 

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We began to wind our way slowly up the ridge as snow conditions were not ideal. There were huge cornices on the east side and wind slab on the west side of the ridge.

 

 

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Surmounting a few obstacles we eventually got to a notch on the ridge as it narrowed significantly. We were presented with a snow bridge where on climbers left was a 200m cliff and climbers right was a 80degree slope onto the Illusion slabs and off the mountain. As we did not bring a rope and the fact that at this point we litterally were kicking steps with our snowshoes we decided it was prudent to abort mission.

 

The descent was uneventful but provided a good opportunity to scout some future trips on neighbouring peaks.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Unless you're a monster snowshoer or skier, be prepared to spend the night on the mountain.

 

Bring a rope and some snow pro.

 

Brought, but didn't use:

- Ice axe

- Crampons

Edited by maw
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